By making these cloths of organic cotton, you get the glorious softness of this earth friendly material and the reassurance that baby is also having the benefit of a completely chemical free fibre as all of the colours are natural and undyed. These are quick, easy and luxurious little gifts that any mom would be pleased to receive.
Materials: 100g King Cole BAMBOO COTTON DK. or 300m of good quality bamboo and/or cotton blend.
Cast on 43 sts. Knit 3 rows.
Eyelet row: K3, *Yfwd, K2tog, K2. Repeat from * to last end.
Pattern rows: K 3 rows.
4th row: K3, Yfwd, K2tog, K to last 4 sts. Yfwd, K2tog, K2.
Repeat these 4 pattern rows 12 more times.
Repeat Eyelet row.
K 3 rows. Cast off loosely.
Cast on 31 sts. (39 for a wider cloth)
Work eyelet row from Washcloth pattern.
Work the 4 pattern rows and repeat them 24 times or until desired length.
K 3 rows.
Repeat Eyelet row.
K 3 rows. Cast off loosely.
NOTE ON THE YARN: The beanie in the photo was done with white wool that was hand painted with Kool-Aid in 4 colours. (Link here to see the yarn dyeing in progress.) http://wooltymekingston.blogspot.com/2007/07/i-got-brave-yesterday.html
Mission Falls 1824 Wool will soon be available in a new Tri Color combo that would be wonderful. Their solid colours are exquisite too. All Mission Falls yarns are machine washable on gentle cycle.
SIZE: 0-3mos (3-6mos, 6-12mos)
MATERIALS: -50g (100g, 100g) Mission Falls 1824 Wool or Cotton.
- 4.5mm needles
TENSION: 20sts = 4” in St st on 4mm needles.
Using 3.75 mm needles, cast on 71 (81, 91) sts loosely. Work 6 rows in St st (Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row).
Change to 4mm needles and work in St st, until hat measures 4 1/2" (5", 5 1/2").
Hat’s top shaping:
1st row: *K5, (6,7) K2tog. Repeat from * to last st, K1. 61 (71, 81) sts.
2nd and all even numbered rows: purl
3rd row: *K4 (5,6) K2tog, Repeat from * to last st, K1. 51 (61, 71) sts.
5th row: *K3, (4,5) K2tog, Repeat from * to last st, K1. 41 (51,61) sts.
Continue decreasing in this manner, having 1 less stitch between the decreases on every 2nd row until 20 stitches remain.
Next row: K2tog 10 times, K1. Purl 1 row.
Next row: K2tog 5 times, K1. 5 sts remain.
Work 6 rows in St st. Break yarn and thread through the remaining sts, draw up tightly and sew seam, reversing the “right” side of work for the last inch to show purl side of bottom rolled brim.
To avoid a seam, this pattern can also be worked in the round using 16" circular needles and changing to double pointed needles as required. All Purl rows would be done in the knit stitch if doing the hat in the round.
Copyright 2007 Anne Woodall, WOOL-TYME Kingston.
MATERIALS: 1 skein JJ Mohair or Mohair Boucle. (2 skeins if fringe is required.)
10mm circular knitting needle 80cm.
1. Cast on 6 stitches loosely. Knit 1 row.
2. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd, knit to the end. Repeat this row 13 times more (20sts)
3. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd, knit to the last 3 sts, inc. n the next stitch, K2. Repeat this row until there are 60 sts on the needle.
4. Next row: Cast on 4 sts. Turn work. Sl 1, (yfwd, K2tog) twice. Knit to the end. Repeat this row until you have 120 sts on the needle.
5. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd. Knit to the end. Continue until there are about 135 sts. Cast off LOOSELY.
You can use the yfwd eyelets for placing a fringe.
Or crochet a border: At the end of the cast off, do not cut yarn. *Ch5, sc into the 2nd yfwd space. Repeat from * along the outer edges.
725 Gardiners Road, Kingston, Ont. K7M 3Y5 email@example.com
Copyright 2007 WOOL-TYME Kingston www.wooltymekingston.blogspot.com
SIZE: Small- to fit 32”-34”chest, Med.- to fit 36”-40” chest, Large- to fit 44”-46”chest. Note: To change the shrug size, use a larger needle after the cuff. Small size use 7mm, Med. Size use 8 or 9mm, large size use 10mm.
MATERIALS: 450m (600m, 750m) of any smooth or textured yarn, light chunky weight.
One pair 4.5mm needles for the cuffs and size required for the shawl size that you wish to make. (see note above - this is a loosely knit garment).
1. With 4.5mm needles, cast on 30sts.
2. 1st row: *K2, P2. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. K2
3. 2nd row: *P2, K2. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. P2
4. Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more (12 rows all together)
5. Inc Row: Change to larger needles and knit, increasing 15 sts evenly. (45 sts)
6. 1st &3rd ptrn row: Purl
7. 2nd row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat to last 2 sts, P2.
8. 4th row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
9. Repeat these four rows, including the increased stitches into the pattern until there are a total of 65 sts (or whatever width you desire) ending with a Purl row.
10. Next row: Place a marker at the beginning of the row. Continue without shaping until the piece measures 30”(or length desired). Place a second marker along the same edge as the first. Measure the distance between the 1st and second markers and work the same distance without shaping until the length from the 2nd marker is the same as the first measurement, ending with a purl row. Place a 3rd marker.
11. 1st ptrn row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 4 sts. K2tog, P2.
12. 2nd and 4th row: Purl.
13. 3rd ptn row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. P2
14. Repeat these 4 rows until there are 45 sts.
15. Dec row: P1, P2tog. Repeat across. (30 sts)
16. Repeat the cuff ribbing as described in #1-4. Cast off loosely.
17. Sew cuff and edges together from cast on edge to 1st marker.**
18. Sew cuff and edges together from cast off edge to 3rd marker. **
**Note: If you want a more fitted look, continue sewing the seam to the desired length.
SIZE: Finished chest: 32” (34”, 36”, 38”)
MATERIALS: 5( 5,6,6) balls of aran weight yarn (100m ea)
5mm & 5.5mm needles or size required to achieve the tension.
GAUGE: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4” in st st on 5.5mm needles.
*With smaller needles, cast on 70 (74-78-82) sts.
Knit 5 rows, inc 4 (4-6-6) sts evenly across last row. 74 (78-84-88) sts.
Change to larger needles and beginning with a knit row, work in socking st (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 11 ½” from the cast on edge, ending with the right side facing for the next row.
Armhole shaping: Cast off 5 sts at the beg of next 2 rows. 64 (68- 74- 78) sts.
Next row: K2, K1, Sl 1, PSSO, Knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Next row: P2, P2tog, Purl to last 4 sts, P2tog through the back loops, P2.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more. 56 (60-66-70) sts.
Next row: K2 K1, Sl 1, PSSO, knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Next row: Purl.
Repeat these last 2 rows 1 (2-3-3) times more. 52 (54-58-62) sts.*
Continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 3 ½ (3 ¾- 4- 4 ¼) ins. ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: K17 (18-19-20). TURN. Leave remaining sts on a st holder.
Next row: P2, P2tog, Purl to end of row.
Next row: K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 13 (14-15-16) sts.
Next row: (WS) Purl
Next row: Knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Repeat last 2 rows 3 times more. 9 (10-11-12) sts.
Beginning with a purl row, continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 7 (7 ¼ -7 ½- 7 ¾) ins. ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.
With right side of work facing, slip next 18 (18-20-22) sts onto a st holder. Join yarn to remaining sts and knit to the end of the row.
Next row: Purl to last 4 sts, P2tog through the back loops, P2.
Next row: K2, K1, Sl1, PSSO, Knit to the end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows once more. 13 (14-15-16) sts.
Next row: Purl
Next row: K2, K1, Sl1, PSSO, Knit to the end of the row.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. 9 (10-11-12) sts.
Beginning with a purl row, continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 7 (7 ¼ -7 ½-
7 ¾ ) ins. Ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.
Work from * to * as for Front.
Continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 4 rows less than the front (to shoulders.)
Shoulder and back neck shaping:
Next row: K10 (11-12-13) K2tog. Leave remaining sts on a st holder.
Next row: P2tog, Purl to end of row.
Next row: Knit to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Cast off remaining 9 (10-11-12) sts.
With right side of work facing, slip the next 28 (28-30-32) sts onto a st holder. Join yarn to remaing sts and proceed: K1, Sl1, PSSO, knit to the end of the row.
Next row: Purl to the last 2 sts. P2tog through the back loops.
Next row: K1, Sl 1, PSSO, knit to the end of row.
Next row: Purl. Cast off remaining 9 (10-11-12) sts.
Neck: Sew right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 22 sts down the left front neck edge. K18 (18-20-22) sts from front st holder. Pick up and knit 22 sts up right front neck edge and 3 sts down right back neck edge. K28 (28-30-32) sts from back st holder. Pick up and knit 3 sts up left beck neck edge. 96 (96-100-104 sts) knit 2 rows. Cast off in knit using a 5.5mm needle in your right hand.
Armbands: Sew left should and neckband seam. With right side of work facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 64 (66-68-70) sts around armhole edge. Knit 2 rows. Cast off in knit. Sew side and armband seams. Copyright 2007, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
NOTE: This is not a sock pattern. These directions are meant to be used with your favourite sock pattern in order to change the leg part so that it is knit sideways, in garter stitch on 2 needles. The advantages are for those who prefer 2 needle knitting as almost half of the sock is completed before you need to return to the 4 needle method, and for those who are concerned about their socks slouching: the sideways garter stitch is very firm and stays up on its own while providing lots of stretch so as not to bind at the leg.
MATERIALS:-This takes a little more yarn than an average pair of socks but 100g should do at least to a man’s medium size.
-The size of needles that you need is determined by the pattern that you usually use. You can put stoppers (or an elastic) on the ends of 2 of your double pointed needles or use a regular pair of needles the same size as the double points that you will be using for the foot of the sock.
SIZE: Directions are given for a 6” leg in 4ply fingering yarn with changes for sport and Worsted weight given in brackets. For a longer leg, cast on more stitches. You will see that it is easy to adapt these directions to suit any sock pattern based on the number of stitches that you would normally require for the leg of the sock.
DIRECTIONS FOR LEG:
Leaving a tail of approx 24”, cast on 48 (42, 36) sts. (IF YOU WISH, use a piece of waste yarn and a provisional cast on.)
Note that row 1 is the wrong side of work.
Knit every row for twice the number of rows as the number of stitches that will be required for the foot of the sock. Example: 120 rows for 60 st pattern. (104 rows for a 52 st pattern; 88 rows for a 44 st pattern).
Place a marker the beginning of the row that marks each ¼ of the rows: Example: at rows 30, 60 & 90. (at rows 26, 54, & 80; at rows 22, 44 & 66) Do not cast off.
With right sides together, join the cast on edge to the stitches on the needle into a tube in one of the following ways:
-Using the long cast-on tail, pick up and knit 48 (42, 36) sts along the cast-on edge and join by grafting with a Kitchener stitch, or with the 3 needle cast off method. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Alternately, cast off the stitches from the needle leaving the last stitch on a stitch holder (DO NOT CUT YARN) and sew the cast-on and cast-off edges together. Turn the leg right side out.
PICKING UP THE FOOT:
**Using a double pointed needle, and beginning at the joined row, pick up and knit 1 stitch between each ridge along the side of the tube to the marker. 15 (13, 11) sts. Repeat from ** twice more using a different needle for each section.
Using a 4th double pointed needle, pick up and knit 15 (13, 11) stitches to the joined row then knit across the first needle of picked up stitches. You will now have 15, 15, 30 (13, 13, 26; 11, 11, 22) sts on your 3 needles and are ready to continue working the heel flap according to your own pattern for socks. Copyright 2007, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
MATERIALS: - 1 ball fashion Ribbon type yarn: (Opulence, Capri, Eros, Dazzle)
- 5.5mm double pointed needles
- 3 large beads
To make I-cord:
I-cord is simply a 2 needle version of the corking that children do with a spool and nails. Here’s how its done.
Using 2 double pointed needles, cast on 5 stitches.
Row 1: Knit. Slide stitches to the other end of the needle. DO NOT TURN.
Row 2: Drawing the yarn from the last stitch of the previous row across the back of the work, knit the 5 stitches. Gently tug the cast on tail to bring the first and last stitches side by side. Slide stitches to the other end of the needle. DO NOT TURN.
Repeat Row 2 until the strand measures 5’ for a doubled strand necklace (if using thicker ribbon such as Opulence, or Dazzle) or 7’ for triple strands (when using lighter ribbon such as Eros).
Copyright 2004 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
MATERIALS: 2- 50g balls of Noro’s BLOSSOM yarn.
1- 50g ball Estelle WHISPER
One pair of size 8mm knitting needles.
DIRECTIONS: NOTE: Throughout the scarf, the 2 yarns are worked together for rows 1 to 4 and BLOSSOM is used alone for rows 5-10.
1. Cast on 22 stitches loosely.
2. 1st row and all odd numbered rows: K1. Increase in the next st by knitting into the front and then into the back of the stitch. Knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
3. 2nd and 4th rows: Knit.
4. 6th, 8th and 10th rows: Purl.
Copyright 2005 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
MATERIALS: 2-100g balls of Lopi Wool for a fuzzy tea cozy or 2-100g of Classic Wool held together for a less furry finish.
9mm circular needle (80cm long)
1 spare straight needle (large, but exact size is not important)
Using 1 strand of Lopi or 2 strands of Classic Wool, cast on 90 sts. Knit 5 rows back and forth, without joining. (Garter Stitch)
First circle Row: Make sure that the knitting is not twisted around the needle, and join in a circle, placing a marker at the first stitch of the round. Knit every row (this will now look like stocking st) until the 2 balls have been almost all used, ending at the marker.
Finishing row: Knit the next 45 stitches onto the spare straight needle. Turn the cozy so that the purl side is facing out and the end of the straight needle is pointing to the right. Slide the circular needle so that its working point is at the 46th stitch and hold the 2 needles parallel in your left hand.
Using the free end of the circular needle, work a 3-needle cast off as follows:
Step 1: *Insert the free end of the circular needle through the first stitch on each of the needles in your left hand. Knit these 2 stitches together.*
Repeat from * to *. (2 sts now on right end of circ needle).
Step 2: Cast off the first of these 2 sts by lifting it over the second, making sure not to lose any of the stitches from the left hand needles.
Repeat these 2 steps casting off a stitch after each new K2tog until 1 st remains on right hand needle.
Break the yarn and pull through the last st. Work in all ends.
For a rounded shape at the corners of your tea cozy, working on the inside of the piece, fold the cozy so that the line that would be the side lies along the cast off edge. Sew through both layers to form a triangle 3 inches from the top corner. Repeat this on the other side.
Turn right side out.
Place the cozy in a zippered pillow case and put it in the washing machine on a hot wash/ cold rinse setting, using a small amount of dish detergent. (You may wish to add a few towels to give more agitation and speed up the felting process) Repeat this process for as many cycles as are necessary to achieve the desired size. (usually 2 or 3 cycles are required). When the cozy is the right size, pat it into the desired shape and let air dry. Do not put it in the dryer.
Copyright 2006, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
Note: Directions are given for scarf with changes for shawl written in parentheses.
MATERIALS: - 1 (2) 50g balls of Mohair LUX (180,/198yds ea)
9 mm needles.
SIZE: Approx. 8” (20”) wide and 43” (40) long without fringe.
DIRECTIONS: Cast on 26 (60) sts
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, +K2tog, yarn over needle+. repeat from + to + to last st. K1
Row 3: Knit
Repeat these 3 rows until scarf measures approx 43” (40”) ending with row 2. Cast off knitwise.
Add fringes of 8-12” long strands if desired.
Copyright 2007 Jane Ramsay.
A fun little something for your best feline friend. I like to use a solid 100% wool because the cats love that little bit of lanolin scent in the wool (as well as the wool itself). Also, when using pure wool, the mice will felt nicely with use. I use organic catnip from a good quality pet food store. (In Kingston: URBAN PAWS.) Jane
Materials: about 50g of 100% wool in worsted weight, firmly spun, (such as Topsy Farm’s or Briggs & Little). Small amount of unspun sheep’s fleece.
Needles: 3.25 mm needles. needles
Beginning at the tail end of the mouse, cast on 4 sts, leaving a yarn tail about 12” long.
Row 1: purl Row 2: K1, Inc loosely in each stitch to the end. 7 sts.
Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 33 sts on the needle.
Next row: Purl. Next row: Knit. Next row: Purl.
1st Dec. row: K1, SSK, K to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 31sts.
Next and every alternate row: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 19 sts on the needle.
Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K5, Slip 2 sts, K1, Pass the 2 slipped stitches over the K stitch, (this will now be known as P2SSO) K5, K2tog, K1. 15sts.
Next and every alternate row: Purl
Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K3, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K3, K2tog, K1. 11 sts.
Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K1, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K1, K2tog, K1. 7sts.
Next Dec. row: K2, Slip 2sts, K1, P2SSO, K2. 5sts.
Last Dec row: K1, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K1. 3sts.
Next Row: P3tog. Cut the tail at about 24” and pull through the last stitch.
Use this long piece to sew the mouse from nose to tail, stuffing with catnip and sheep’s fleece in layers as you go. When fully stitched, double up the longest piece of sewing yarn by pulling part way through the tail end of the mouse, making 4 strands. Braid these strands to make the tail. Add whiskers with embroidery thread.
SIZE: This shrug fits almost anyone. If you want it longer down your back cast on 51 sts and continue increasing to 68 sts. If you want longer sleeves, work the straight part along the back for extra repeats of the 4 row pattern. Sew the sleeves to the ½ way between your shoulder and armpit for a nice drape in the back and to have it stay on your shoulders.
MATERIALS: 4 50g balls of Sirdar JUST BAMBOO ribbon.
One pair 8mm needles. This is a very loosely knit garment
1. Cast on 45 sts.
2. Purl 1 row.
3. Solid cuff row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to the last 2 sts. P2.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Next row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
6. Inc.Pattern Rows: Rows 1 and 3: Purl.
7. 2nd pattern row (right side): P5, K 2, *yfwd, K2tog, K1 Repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
8. 4th pattern row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
9. Repeat these four rows, including the increased stitches into the pattern until there are a total of 60 sts (or whatever width you desire) ending with an increase.
10. Next row: Place a marker at the beginning of the row. Continue without increasing on the 4th row for 44 rows (or length desired). Place a second marker along the same edge as the first.
11. Dec. Pattern Rows: Rows 1 and 3: Purl.
12. 2nd pattern row: P5, K 2, *yfwd, K2tog, K1 Repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
13. 4th pattern row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K2tog, P2.
14. Repeat these 4 rows until there are 45 sts ending with 4th pattern row. Purl 1 row.
15. Repeat the solid cuff row from the beginning of the pattern .
16. Cast off loosely on the next row.
17. Sew arms along the first 7 repeats of the pattern (count the yfwd eyelets to guide you) or whatever length suits your fit and look.
18. In case you’re not sure, the garter stitch edge (P5) usually looks better around the neck and the shaped edge goes along the bottom but it’s whatever suits best.
**Note: If you want a more fitted look, continue sewing the underarm seam to the desired length.