SIDEWAYS SOCKS ADAPTATION
NOTE: This is not a sock pattern. These directions are meant to be used with your favourite sock pattern in order to change the leg part so that it is knit sideways, in garter stitch on 2 needles. The advantages are for those who prefer 2 needle knitting as almost half of the sock is completed before you need to return to the 4 needle method, and for those who are concerned about their socks slouching: the sideways garter stitch is very firm and stays up on its own while providing lots of stretch so as not to bind at the leg.
MATERIALS:-This takes a little more yarn than an average pair of socks but 100g should do at least to a man’s medium size.
-The size of needles that you need is determined by the pattern that you usually use. You can put stoppers (or an elastic) on the ends of 2 of your double pointed needles or use a regular pair of needles the same size as the double points that you will be using for the foot of the sock.
SIZE: Directions are given for a 6” leg in 4ply fingering yarn with changes for sport and Worsted weight given in brackets. For a longer leg, cast on more stitches. You will see that it is easy to adapt these directions to suit any sock pattern based on the number of stitches that you would normally require for the leg of the sock.
DIRECTIONS FOR LEG:
Leaving a tail of approx 24”, cast on 48 (42, 36) sts. (IF YOU WISH, use a piece of waste yarn and a provisional cast on.)
Note that row 1 is the wrong side of work.
Knit every row for twice the number of rows as the number of stitches that will be required for the foot of the sock. Example: 120 rows for 60 st pattern. (104 rows for a 52 st pattern; 88 rows for a 44 st pattern).
Place a marker the beginning of the row that marks each ¼ of the rows: Example: at rows 30, 60 & 90. (at rows 26, 54, & 80; at rows 22, 44 & 66) Do not cast off.
With right sides together, join the cast on edge to the stitches on the needle into a tube in one of the following ways:
-Using the long cast-on tail, pick up and knit 48 (42, 36) sts along the cast-on edge and join by grafting with a Kitchener stitch, or with the 3 needle cast off method. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Alternately, cast off the stitches from the needle leaving the last stitch on a stitch holder (DO NOT CUT YARN) and sew the cast-on and cast-off edges together. Turn the leg right side out.
PICKING UP THE FOOT:
**Using a double pointed needle, and beginning at the joined row, pick up and knit 1 stitch between each ridge along the side of the tube to the marker. 15 (13, 11) sts. Repeat from ** twice more using a different needle for each section.
Using a 4th double pointed needle, pick up and knit 15 (13, 11) stitches to the joined row then knit across the first needle of picked up stitches. You will now have 15, 15, 30 (13, 13, 26; 11, 11, 22) sts on your 3 needles and are ready to continue working the heel flap according to your own pattern for socks. Copyright 2007, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
NOTE: This is not a sock pattern. These directions are meant to be used with your favourite sock pattern in order to change the leg part so that it is knit sideways, in garter stitch on 2 needles. The advantages are for those who prefer 2 needle knitting as almost half of the sock is completed before you need to return to the 4 needle method, and for those who are concerned about their socks slouching: the sideways garter stitch is very firm and stays up on its own while providing lots of stretch so as not to bind at the leg.
MATERIALS:-This takes a little more yarn than an average pair of socks but 100g should do at least to a man’s medium size.
-The size of needles that you need is determined by the pattern that you usually use. You can put stoppers (or an elastic) on the ends of 2 of your double pointed needles or use a regular pair of needles the same size as the double points that you will be using for the foot of the sock.
SIZE: Directions are given for a 6” leg in 4ply fingering yarn with changes for sport and Worsted weight given in brackets. For a longer leg, cast on more stitches. You will see that it is easy to adapt these directions to suit any sock pattern based on the number of stitches that you would normally require for the leg of the sock.
DIRECTIONS FOR LEG:
Leaving a tail of approx 24”, cast on 48 (42, 36) sts. (IF YOU WISH, use a piece of waste yarn and a provisional cast on.)
Note that row 1 is the wrong side of work.
Knit every row for twice the number of rows as the number of stitches that will be required for the foot of the sock. Example: 120 rows for 60 st pattern. (104 rows for a 52 st pattern; 88 rows for a 44 st pattern).
Place a marker the beginning of the row that marks each ¼ of the rows: Example: at rows 30, 60 & 90. (at rows 26, 54, & 80; at rows 22, 44 & 66) Do not cast off.
With right sides together, join the cast on edge to the stitches on the needle into a tube in one of the following ways:
-Using the long cast-on tail, pick up and knit 48 (42, 36) sts along the cast-on edge and join by grafting with a Kitchener stitch, or with the 3 needle cast off method. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Alternately, cast off the stitches from the needle leaving the last stitch on a stitch holder (DO NOT CUT YARN) and sew the cast-on and cast-off edges together. Turn the leg right side out.
PICKING UP THE FOOT:
**Using a double pointed needle, and beginning at the joined row, pick up and knit 1 stitch between each ridge along the side of the tube to the marker. 15 (13, 11) sts. Repeat from ** twice more using a different needle for each section.
Using a 4th double pointed needle, pick up and knit 15 (13, 11) stitches to the joined row then knit across the first needle of picked up stitches. You will now have 15, 15, 30 (13, 13, 26; 11, 11, 22) sts on your 3 needles and are ready to continue working the heel flap according to your own pattern for socks. Copyright 2007, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall
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