Canadian Work Socks

In celebration of Canada's 150th birthday in 2017, KnitTraders is proud to present this free pattern:  Canadian Work Sock.

SIZE: Fits most adults by adjusting the foot length.

MATERIALS: -100g of main colour worsted weight sock yarn (grey)

-50g ea of 2 contrast colours of worsted weight sock yarn. (white, red)

• 3.5mm double pointed needles.

TENSION: 24sts = 4” in St st .

DIRECTIONS:

Cuff & Leg. Using white, cast on 48 sts loosely and arrange on 3 needles. Join in the round being careful not to twist the stitches around the needle. Note that this join marks the beginning of each round.

Work 5 rounds in K2, P2 rib.

Using red, Purl 1 round. (note that this will look odd but we are making a tidy switch to the next colour on the Wrong Side of the work as this cuff will be turned down over the leg of the sock.

Using red, work 5 rounds in K2, P2 rib. Cut the red yarn.

Using white, Purl 1 round. (See note above).

Using white, work 5 rounds in K2. P2 rib. The cuff ends here.

The rib pattern for the rest of the sock will be K3, P1.

Using white, work 10 rounds in K3 P1 rib. Cut the white yarn.

Using grey, Knit 1 round.

Using grey, work for 4 ½ inches in K3 P1 rib.

Heel. Starting at the beginning of the round divide the stitches so that there are 12 on each of the 4 needles. The working yarn will be at the end of the 4^th needle. Using the 4^th needle, knit across the stitches from the 1^st needle so that there are now 2 needles with 12 sts each (for the top of the foot), and 1 needle with 24 sts (for the heel flap). Do not cut grey yarn.

-Reattach red yarn and working back and forth on the needle with 24 sts ONLY, proceed as follows:

Row 1: Turn work, Slip 1, P to end of needle.

Row 2: Turn work, *Slip 1, K1. Repeat from * to the end of the needle. You should end with a K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 24 rows.

-Next row: P14, P2tog, P1 TURN work.

Next row: Slip 1, K5, Slip 1, K1, Pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one as if casting off (This will now be referred to as PSSO). K1 more stitch. TURN work. (22sts on needle)

Next row: Slip 1, Purl to 1 stitch before the space created by the turn in the last row. P2tog, closing the space on the previous row. P1 more stitch. TURN work.

Next row: Slip 1, Knit to 1 stitch before the space created by the turn in the last row. Slip 1, K1, PSSO. K 1 more stitch. TURN work. (20 sts)

Repeat These last 2 rows until there are 14 stitches left . Leave these stitches on this needle and proceed:

Gusset: With the right side of the heel flap facing you (the side where the working yarn is), using the red working yarn and an empty needle, pick up and knit (PU&K) 12 stitches along the side of the heel flap. Cut the red yarn.

-Slide the stitches from the next 2 needles onto one single needle now holding 24 sts. Using the grey yarn and the empty needle, work across these 24 stitches. (From now on continue using grey yarn for the foot.)

-PU&K 12 stitches along the left side of the heel flap.

-Knit the first 7 stitches from the 14 stitches held at the bottom of the heel flap.

-Slide the next 7 stitches from the bottom of the heel flap onto the needle with picked up stitches from the right side of the flap.

You will now have the working yarn at the beginning of the round. Needle 1 will have 19 stitches on it. Needle 2 will have 24 stitches, and needle 3 will also have 19 stitches. (62 sts)

1^st Gusset round: Knit needle 1. Following the K3 P1 pattern established in the leg, work across the 24 stitches of needle 2. Knit needle 3.

2^nd Gusset round: Knit needle 1 to the last 3 sts. K2tog, K1. Work across needle 2 in established pattern. Knit 1 from needle 3, Slip 1, K1, PSSO, Knit to end of needle 3. (60 sts)

Work the last 2 rounds until needles 1 and 3 have 12 stitches each and needle 2 will have its original 24 sts. (48 sts.)

Foot: Continue knitting needles 1 and 3 and working needle 2 in the established K3 P1 rib until the foot measures 2 inches less than the required length.

Cut the grey yarn.

1^st toe round: Using red yarn Knit 1 round.

2^nd toe round: Needle 1: Knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog, K1

Needle 2: K1, Slip 1, K1, PSSO, knit to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

Needle 3: K1 Slip 1, K1, PSSO, Knit to the end

Continue working these 2 toe rounds until there are a total of 24 stitches left in the round. (6-12-6)

Close the toe with Kitchener stitch or 3 needle cast off. Sew in all ends.

725 Gardiners Rd. Kingston Ontario K7M 3Y5

email: shop@knittraders.com www.knittraders.com

Ombre Skirt

NOTE re sizing: Because this project it knitted sideways, the stitch gauge is what determines the length of the skirt. The width can be adjusted by knitting for the as many inches as are required before joining the cast on and cast off edges. 
 
SIZE/GAUGE: Length:The sample skirt was knit to a gauge of 16sts x 26 rows= 10cm (4”). The length, using this gauge and the stitches given in the pattern was a total of 16” which includes a 2 ½” waistband. Please see **NOTE at the end of the directions for swatch tips to help you get the length that you desire. 
 
Width: Finished measurements for the sample skirt were 40” at the base, 36” at the hips and 29” at the waist. The skirt is very flexible as to size and it's best to compare your work to a skirt that fits well to judge the size that you wish to achieve. 
 
MATERIALS: 200g of Chunky weight yarn (#5)- approx. 350m in total (depending on the width required.)

-6mm needles.

ABBREVIATIONS: W&T Wrap and Turn: This pattern uses short rows to create the shaping for the hips and waist. To avoid holes at the turns we use the W&T method. Please check Tin Can Knits website for an excellent tutorial on this method.

DIRECTIONS: Cast on 68 sts. (You can use a provisional cast on to avoid a seam when you are joinging the cast on edge to the last row.)
Row 1:*K1, P1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts (lower edge). Knit to the end of the row.
Row 2: K10 (garter waist band), P50, *K1, P1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 
Row 3: *P1, K1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. K30 leaving the remaining 30 sts unworked. W&T.
 Row 4: P to last 8 sts, *P1, K1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Row 5: *K1, P1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. K31. Pick up the wrap from the base of the last stitch using the left hand needle, and knit it together with the next stitch. Knit to the end of the row. Row 6: Work Row 2. 
 Row 7: *P1, K1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. Knit to the end of the row. 
 Row 8: K10, P50. *P1, K1. Repeat from * to end of row. 
Row 9: *K1, P1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. Purl 50 (for the pleat ridge). Knit to the end of the row. 
 Row 10 Work Row 2. 
Row 11: Work Row 7. 
 Row 12: Work Row 8. 
Row 13: Work Row 1. 
Row 14: Work Row 2. 
 Row 15: *P1, K1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. K40 leaving the remaining 20 sts unworked. W&T. 
 Row 16: Purl to last 8 sts, *P1, K1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.  
Row 17: *K1, P1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. K41. Pick up the wrap from the base of the last stitch using the left hand needle, and knit it together with the next stitch. Knit to the end of the row. Row 18: Work Row 2. 
Row 19: Work Row 7. 
Row 20: Work Row 8.

Repeat these 20 rows until the bottom of the skirt has reached the desired width (measure this width 2” above the double moss stitch border.)

FINISHING: You can cast off and mattress stitch the cast on edge to the cast off. If you have used the provisional cast on, you can join the live stitches at the end of your work with the live ones when the waste yarn is removed using the Kitchener Stitch. 
 
**NOTES RE MODIFYING THE SIZE: For less waist shaping If you prefer a wider waist, omit the W&T in row 3.
For a more flared, A-line look: For a narrower waist in relation to the bottom, work a W&T after the 28^th stitch on Row 19.
For a longer (or shorter) skirt: The length of a skirt is absolutely as important as the width. For this reason I STRONGLY encourage you to check your gauge by working the following swatch:

Cast on 28 sts.

Row 1: *K1, P1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. Knit to the end of the row.

 Row 2: K10, P10, *K1 P1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 

Row 3: *P1, K1. Repeat from * for a total of 8 sts. Knit to the end of the row. 

 Row 4: K10, P10. *P1, K1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

Repeat these 4 rows for a total of 8”. 

Measure the width of the garter stitch border and the moss stitch border. Subtract these totals from the finished length that you need. Calculate your stitches per inch for the stocking stitch section of your swatch, and increase (or decrease) the number of stitches required to get your desired length.

Copyright 2016, Anne Woodall. KnitTraders of Kingston.

Email: shop@knittraders.com www.knittraders.com

Chenille Throw

SIZE: approx. 36” x 52”

MATERIALS:- 6x 98m of Flutterby ANIMAL PRINTS or similar bulky chenille yarn of the same yardage

10mm circular needle, at least 80cm long.

GAUGE: not essential for the project

DIRECTIONS:

Cast on 72 sts loosely

Rows 1-4: *K2, P2. Repeat from * to end of the row.

Rows 5-8: *P2, K2. Repeat from * to end of the row.

Repeat these 8 rows until you have 5m left. Cast off loosely.

725 Gardiners Rd, Kingston ON K7M 3Y5 email: shop@knittraders.com

Chenille Cowl

CHENILLE COWL

SIZE: approx. 5” x 56”.
MATERIALS: 100g ball of Chunky Chenille (175m)
-6.5 or 7mm needles.

DIRECTIONS: Cast on 14.
Row 1: K2 (P2, K2) 6 times.
Row 2: P2 (K2, P2) 6 times.

Repeat these 2 rows until the yarn until 1m of yarn is left.

Cast off loosely. Sew up the seam. 

Email: shop@knittraders.com www.knittraders.com