The Shoulder Wrap

NOTE: Pattern is written for the small ladies’ size. Medium directions are written in brackets. If there are no bracket changes, the directions apply to both sizes.
SIZE: Small 40” around shoulders, (Medium, 46” around shoulders)
MATERIALS: 400m worsted/Aran weight yarn (500 m Chunky yarn)
5mm circ needles 60/80cm long (8mm circ needles 60/80cm long)
DIRECTIONS:
1. Cast on 200 sts loosely. Join in the round, being carful not to twist the stitches around the needle.
2. Knit in rounds for 9” (12”).
3. Dec round: *K2, K2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 150 sts.
4. Knit for 2”.
5. Dec round: *K1, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of the round. 100 sts. **
6. Knit 3” more. Cast off loosely.
Optional higher neck: Work to ** then Knit 2”.
Dec round: *K2, K2tog. 75sts.
Knit 2” cast off loosely.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston www.wooltymekingston.blogspot.com

The Big Collar

SIZE & GAUGE: One size fits all; gauge is not very important for this project.
MATERIALS: - 150m soft chunky yarn.
- 8mm 60cm circ needles (Use a 6-6.5mm needle if you want a collar that fits closer to the neck for warmth.)
ABBREVIATIONS: M1: With the left hand needle, and coming from the front, pick up the top strand between the 2 needles. With the right hand needle, knit this strand from the back.
M1P: With the left hand needle and coming from the back, pick up the top strand between the 2 needles. With the right hand needle, purl the strand from the front.
DIRECTIONS: Cast on 80 sts. Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches around the needle.
Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 3”.
Next Round: *K1, M1, K1, P2. Repeat from * to end of round. (100 sts) Place a marker on this round.
Next Round: *K3, P2. Repeat from * to the end of round.
Repeat this last row for 1 ½” from the marker..
Next Round: *K3, P1, M1P, P1. Repeat from * to the end of the round (120 sts). Move the marker up to mark this round.
Next Round: *K3, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat this last row for 1 ½” from the marker.
Next Round: *K2, M1, K1, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round (140 sts). Move the marker up to mark this round.
Next Round: *K4, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat this last round for 1 ½” from the marker.
Next Round: *K4, P2, M1P, P1. Repeat from * to the end of the round. (160 sts)
Next Round: *K4, P4. Repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat this last round until there is just enough yarn to cast off loosely (approx 2m).
Cast off loosely and sew in the tails.
Note: a fine band of elastic thread can be worked in when the collar is finished at the base of the neck to give it a more fitted look.
725 Gardiners Road, Kingston, Ont. K7M 3Y5 email: Wooltyme@kingston.net

Cloche Hat

SIZE: Small: 21” (med 23”, large 25”)

MATERIALS:
-approx 130m of aran weight wool, cotton or silk (pictured in Manos Classica)
-4.5mm needles. (circular or flex needles will give you a chance to gauge the fit of your hat before it’s finished.)

GAUGE: 17sts=4”
ABBREVIATIONS:
SSK: slip the next 2 stitches onto the right hand needle knitwise. Reinsert the left hand needle into the front of these 2 sts and knit the 2 sts together. SL1= slip the next stitch onto the right hand needle. PSSO= Pass the slipped stitch over.

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 93 (101,109) sts.
Knit 2 rows, Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st (K1row, P1row) until piece measures 6” for plain rim or 7” for rolled edge hat.

Decrease:
1st dec row: K1 (SSK, K18 (20,22), K2tog, K1) 4 times. 85 (93, 101) sts.
Next row and all alt rows: Purl.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K16 (18, 20), K2tog, K1) 4 times. 77 (85, 93) sts.
Continue decreasing in this manner on every 2nd row, having 2 less sts between decreases to 53 (61, 69) sts.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K4 (6,8), K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 37 (45, 53) sts.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K0 (2,4) K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 21 (29, 37) sts.
Small size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 13 sts.
Med size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K2tog) 4 times. 13 sts.
Large size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 21 sts
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K2 tog, K1) 4 times. 13 sts.
All sizes: Next dec row: K1 (SL1, K1, PSSO, K1) 4 times. 9 sts.

Finishing: Break yarn and thread onto a darning needle. Pass the yarn through the remaining sts and draw up tightly. Sew up back seam, making sure to reverse seam for the last inch at the bottom if you are making a rolled brim hat.

Child's Frilly Hat of Cascade Fixation Cotton

Designed by Deb White

Note: Directions are given for a small toddler size. For child’s size 2 follow instructions given in brackets.

MATERIALS: 1- 50g balls of Fixation cotton with spandex.
One pair each of size 3mm and 3.75 mm needles. (Larger needles will give a more relaxed fit.)

ABBREVIATIONS:
Yfwd: Bring the yarn forward between the needles, as if preparing to purl.
K2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
PSSO: pass the slipped stitch over.

DIRECTIONS:
1. BRIM: Using 3.75mm needles, cast on 264 (297) sts.
2. Knit 2 rows, Purl 1 row.
3. Next Row: *Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO. Repeat from * to end of row. 88 (99) sts.
4. BAND: Change to 3mm needles. Beginning on wrong side row, continue as follows: K 1 row, P 1 row, K1 row, P 2 rows.
5. K 1 row, P 1 row. Next row: K1, **yfwd, K2tog. Repeat from ** to last st. K1. K 1 row.
6. Repeat the 4 rows of #5 once (twice) more.
7. Change to 3.75mm needles. Beginning with a K row (right side), continue in stockinette st for 8cm (12cm), ending with a purl row.
8. CROWN: (K9, K2tog) to end of needle. 80 (90) sts. P 1 row.
9. (K8, K2tog) to end of needle. 72 (81) sts. Purl 1 row.
10. Continue decreasing 8(9) sts in this manner, on every right side row until 11 sts remain. Cut yarn and draw securely through all sts. Sew up back seam.

Copyright, 2009 Deb White.

FELTED BALLS

These felted and fiberfill stuffed knitted balls have dozens of uses: baby and toddler toys, a base for stuffed animals, dryer balls, Christmas and decorations for other events. Let your imagination run wild as to colour combinations and uses.
Pictured above are one ball made of Chunky weight felting yarn and 3 balls made of worsted weight. Dimensions and materials are given for the Chunky ball first (with worsted weight materials and dimensions in bold & brackets.)

Size: varies depending on yarn used and amount of felting.
Chunky ball approx. 12” around. (Worsted ball approx. 9” around.)

Materials: A total of approx 100-200m of Chunky weight pure wool. (50-100m of a worsted weight pure wool.)
Polyester fiberfill, or clean sheep fleece.
Pair of 8mm needles (6mm needles.)
Sturdy sewing thread and needle.

Colour changes: No colour indications are given in the knitting pattern. The following will help you plan the colour scheme of your balls.
- The blue/green ball alternates colours for each of the 10 sections of the ball. Do not cut the yarn after each section but just pick up the next colour when needed gently stranding it across the row ends of the previous section.
-The red ball is made of one colour with an added thread of silver metallic yarn in alternating sections.
-The “basketball” uses the brown colour throughout except for the 1st and 12th rows of each section. Do not cut the yarn after each colour use but just pick up the next colour when needed, gently stranding it across the row ends of the previous section.
-The multi-coloured ball uses mini skeins of rug/felting yarn (available at WOOL-TYME Kingston): 2-3 chunky skeins 3m each (or 1-2 skeins - worsted weight 5m each) for each colour.

Directions: The balls pictured here have a slightly flattened form (like a pumpkin) To achieve this look, follow the first set of numbers. For a more rounded sphere, follow the 2nd set of numbers in brackets.

Cast on 21 (27) sts.
Row 1: knit
Short Row 2: K14 (20)sts and turn the work, leaving 7 stitches unworked.
Short Row 3: SL1, K6 (K12). Turn the work, leaving 7 stitches unworked.
Short Row 4: SL 1, K8 (K14). Turn.
Short Row 5: SL1, K10 (K16). Turn.
Short Row 6: SL1, K12 (K18). Turn.
Short Row 7: SL1, K14 (K20). Turn.
Short Row 8: SL 1, K16 (K22). Turn.
Short Row 9: SL 1, K18 (K24). Turn.
Short Row 10: SL1, K19 (K25). Turn
Short Row 11: SL 1, K20 (K26). Turn.
Row 12: Knit.
Repeat these 12 rows for a total of 10 sections, changing colours as desired.
Cast off loosely and sew the cast on edge to the cast off edge. (If you prefer to use a provisional cast on, Do not cast off and these 2 rows can be grafted together using the Kitchener stitch.) Use the yarn and needle to gather the side rows around one end of the ball and draw up tightly. Secure VERY WELL so that it doesn’t come apart during the felting process. Leave the other end open for stuffing.

Felting and finishing: Put each ball into its own washing bag (a pillow case or lingerie bag) and secure the ends well. Wash in a top loading machine using the hot wash/cold rinse setting with the lowest water level and maximum agitation. (I add a kettle of boiling water to the tub as it’s filling). When the cycle is finished, check for size. You want the stitches to be almost completely invisible and part of the fabric. If your ball has not felted enough, repeat the process.
Air dry and stuff firmly with fiberfill or fleece. Using the heavy duty thread, draw up the stitches from around the stuffing hole and close, securing firmly.

Copyright, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall, 2009

BEADED NECKLACE, BRACELET AND ANKLET

SIZE: necklace: 7 ½” + Icord,
Bracelet: 6 ½”
Anklet: 8”
MATERIALS: a small amount of fingering weight/ fine 4 ply cotton (#5 crochet cotton)
4oz of #6 beads,
toggle clasp or other style of fastener,

2 double pointed needles 2.75mm

TENSION: not crucial for these projects.

Abbreviations: B-yfwd = Slide a bead from the working yarn up to the needle and bring the yarn between the needles to the front of the work. Yfwd: bring the yarn between the needle to the front of the work. Kf&b = increase by knitting in the front and the back of the next stitch. K2tog = knit the next 2 stitches together. SL = slip the stitches to the right hand needle without working them.

DIRECTIONS: necklace:
NOTE- before beginning, string at least 50 beads onto the knitting cotton with a beading needle. The beads will be drawn up into position individually as needed during the knitting.
Cast on 5sts. (use the crochet method if you are familiar with it, as these stitches will be picked up later to create the I-cord)
1st row: K3, Kf&b, K1. (6sts)
2nd row (right side): K4, yfwd, SL 2.
3rd row: K4, Kf&b, K1. (7sts)
4th row: K5, yfwd, SL 2.
Continue in this manner, increasing on every second row and slipping the last 2 sts of the right side row to create a fine I-cord edging, until there are 13 sts ending with a right side row:

1st pattern row: K3, (B-yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2tog) twice, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K to the last 2 sts making sure that the bead on the B-yfwd stitches stay to the left side of your stitch as you are working it. TURN the work leaving the last 2 sts unworked on the right hand needle; bring the yarn to the back between the needles and work the following row.
3rd and 4th pattern rows: K to last 2 stitches, yfwd, SL2.
5th pattern row: K3, (yfwd, K2tog, B-yfwd, K2tog) twice, yfwd, SL2
6th row: Repeat row 2.
7th and 8th pattern rows: repeat rows 3 and 4.
Repeat these 8 rows until the beaded section is about 6 ½” long or the desired length.

1st dec. row: Knit to the last 2 sts, K2tog. (12 sts)
2nd row: knit.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 5 stitches left.
I-cord: Turn the work so that the right side is facing you. K5. DO NOT TURN.
Next row: Slide the stitches to the other end of the double pointed needle and gently tugging the yarn that is attached to the last stitch, Knit the 1st stitch and then the next 4 stitches.
Repeat this row, working always from the right side of the work until it is about 5” – 7” long. Put stitches on a stitch holder and cut a tail about 18” long.
With the right side of the work facing you, pick up 5 stitches and work the I -cord as on the other side. Sew clasp components in place at the end of the I-cords.

BEADED BRACELET
MATERIALS: A small quantity of fingering weight cotton,

3 oz of #6 beads,

1 large bead or button,

2 double pointed needles 2.75mm.

DIRECTIONS: bracelet
String at least 50 beads onto the knitting cotton using a beading needle.
Cast on 3 sts leaving an 18” tail.
1st row: K to last stitch, Kf&b. (4sts)
2nd row (right side): K to last stitch, Kf&b. (5sts).
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 11 stitches.

1st pattern row: K3, (B-yfwd, K2tog) 3 times, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K to the last 2 sts making sure that the bead on the B-yfwd stitches stay to the left side of your stitch as you are working it. Yfwd, SL2.
3rd and 4th pattern rows: K to last 2 stitches, yfwd, SL2.
5th pattern row: K3, (yfwd, K2tog) 3 times, yfwd, SL2
6th row: Repeat row 2.
7th and 8th pattern rows: repeat rows 3 and 4.
Repeat these 8 rows until the beaded section is about 5 ½” long or the desired length.

Decrease row: Knit to the last 2 sts, K2tog. (10 sts)
Repeat this row until there are 3 sts left.
I-cord: K3. DO NOT TURN YOUR WORK.
Next row: * Slide the stitches to the other end of the double pointed needle and gently tugging the yarn that is attached to the last stitch. Knit the 3 stitches.
Repeat from * until the I-cord is about 1 1/2”- 2” long. Cut yarn at about 18” long and thread onto a needle. Slip the stitches onto the yarn and draw up tightly. Sew into a loop to accommodate the bead/button. Sew the bead/button to the other end of the bracelet.

BEADED ANKLET

MATERIALS: A small amount of fingering weight cotton, 12 medium size beads, 1 larger bead for attaching, small crochet hook, 2 double pointed needles 2.75mm.

DIRECTIONS: Anklet

Do not string beads onto the working yarn.
Cast on 3 sts. Work I-Cord as described in the bracelet for 1 ½” – 2”.
Next row: Kf&b, K to the end. (4sts)
Repeat this row until there are 7 sts.
1st pattern row: K3, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K5, yfwd, SL2
3rd & 4th rows: Repeat rows 1&2.
5th pattern row: as row 1.
6th pattern row: K1, Place a Bead in the following manner: Pick up a bead with the small crochet hook. Remove the knitted stitch from the right hand needle. Draw the knitted stitch through the bead and place the stitch back on the needle. K4, yfwd, SL2.
7th & 8th rows: Repeat rows 1 & 2.
Repeat these 8 rows until the anklet snuggly around the ankle, measuring from the first increase row.
Next row: K2tog, K5 (6sts)
Repeat this row until there are 3 sts remaining. Cut the yarn at 18” and thread through a needle. Draw the stitches onto the yarn and draw up to tighten. Sew the larger bead to the end of the anklet and make a loop of the beginning I-cord to create a button hole for the fastening bed.

Copyright WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall 2009

Fingerless Gloves

SIZE: one size fits most. (For a smaller or larger glove, subtract or add stitches in increments of 4.)

MATERIALS: -1 skein (125m) of Manos del Uruguay wool or other aran weight yarn.
-5mm needles

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 45 stitches.
1st row: (K3, P1.) Repeat to last st. K1.
Repeat this row until glove measures approx. 8”. (Note: This is not a K3, P1 rib. It is sometimes called a “mistaken rib” because only the middle one of each of the K3 stitches lines up.) Leave stitches on a stitch holder and break the yarn leaving about 40” tail to cast off. Work the second glove as the first and cast off at 8” if you have enough yarn to knit the glove that long. (If you don’t have enough yarn, measure the 2nd glove and pull back the first glove to match the length of the 2nd one.) Cast off loosely.

Finishing:
Starting at the cast off edge, sew up the side seam 5 ½”. Starting at the cast on edge, sew seam 1 ½”, leaving 1” opening for the thumb. For extra stability you can sew a stitch between each of the fingers; the gloves will stay in place better that way.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston Anne Woodall

Thrum Mittens on 2 needles

Materials: 100g worsted weight wool
Thrum roving
1 pair of 4mm needles.

Tension: 20 sts = 4in with 4mm needles in sticking st without the thrum.
Size: The instructions are written for a woman’s mitt with necessary changes for man’s size given in brackets.

Note: To make a thrum: Pull off (do not cut) a 3” piece of fleece or roving (using 4 strands of roving). Twist this length of fleece or roving slightly in the center so that it is about the same thickness as your yarn. Place the thrum in the stitch indicated in your pattern by following the k1th directions given below in every 3rd stitch of every 4th row of the main part of the mitten.

k1th: (knit 1 thrum): Insert right needle into next st knitwise. Wrap a 3 inch piece of thrum around the right needle leaving the ends to the wrongside of the work. Wrap yarn around needle and knit as if with 2 strands (the yarn and the thrum). When purling this stitch on the next row, follow the directions for p1tbl given below.
p1tbl: purl the next stitch through the back loop. This stitch is used every time you purl a thrum stitch from the previous row to help lock in the fleece.

Right Mitt
Cuff:

Cast on 42 (44)sts. Work in K2 P2 rib for 4 to 6 inches.
From this point on, thrums are to be worked in every 3rd st of every 4th row.

Change to Stocking stitch and work 4 (6) rows, ending with a purl row.

*Thumb gusset:

1st row (right side): K21 (23). Inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts. Knit to end of row.
2nd and all even rows: Purl
3rd row: K21 (23) Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th row: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between the increases for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts. Purl 1 more row.

Make thumb:

K35 (37). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 (including the stitch just cast on). Turn. Cast on 1 st.
Working on these 15 thumb sts, continue in stocking st for 2” (2 ½”) ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: K1. *K2tog. Rep from * to end of row. Break yarn. Thread the end of the yarn through remaining sts. Draw up and fasten securely. Sew thumb seam.

Make remainder of mitt: With right side of work facing, join yarn to last st on right hand needle. Pick up and knit 2 sts at base of thumb. Knit across sts on left hand needle.
Next row: Purl across, purling to the 2 sts picked up at the base of the thumb 40 (44) sts.
Continue even in stocking st until work from top of ribbing measures 5 ¾” (6 ¼”) ending a wrong side row.

Shape top:

1st row: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K14 (16). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
2nd and all even rows: purl.
3rd row: K1. SL1. psso. K12 (14). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
5th row: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K10 (12). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. Continue in this manner, having 2 sts less between dec on every right side row to 16 sts. Cast off purlways. Sew top and side seam.

LEFT MITT

Work as for Right mitt to *thumb gusset then proceed as follows:
1st row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in each of next 2 sts. Knit to the end.
2nd and all even rows: Purl.
3rd row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc I st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between inc for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts. Purl on more row.

Make thumb: K30 (32). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 including the cast on st. Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15sts, finish thumb and remainder of mitt as given for right mitt.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall wooltymekingston@gmail.com

Thrum Mittens on 4 needles

Materials: 100g worsted weight wool
Thrum roving
4-double pointed 4mm needles.

Size: The instructions are written for a woman’s mitt with necessary changes for man’s size given in brackets.
TENSION 20 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) in stocking stitch with thrums knitted in.

Note: To make a thrum: Pull off (do not cut) a 3” piece of fleece or roving (using 3 strands of roving). Twist this length of fleece or roving slightly in the center so that it is about the same thickness as your yarn. Place the thrum in the stitch indicated in your pattern by following the k1th directions given below in every 3rd stitch of every 4th row of the main part of the mitten.

k1th: (knit 1 thrum): Insert right needle into next st knitwise. Wrap a 3 inch piece of thrum around the right needle leaving the ends to the inside of the work. Wrap yarn around needle and knit as if with 2 strands (the yarn and the thrum). When working this stitch on the next row, follow the directions for k1tbl given below.
k1tbl: knit the next stitch through the back loop. This stitch is used every time you knit a thrum stitch from the previous row to help lock in the fleece.

Right MittCuff:

Cast on 42 (44) sts. Join in a round, making sure not to twist the stitches around the needles. Work in K2 P2 rib for 4 to 6 inches.
Knit 2 rounds.
3rd round: *K2, k1th. Repeat from * to end. (or last 2 sts for larger size. K2)
4th round: *K2, k1tbl. Repeat from * to end. (or last 2 sts for larger size. K2) From this point on, thrums are to be worked in every 3rd st of every 4th row.
Knit 4 (6) rounds.

*Thumb gusset:

1st round: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts. Knit to end of round.
2nd and all even rounds: knit.
3rd rounds: K21 (23) Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th rounds: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between the increases for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts.

Knit 1 more round.

Make thumb (Note: Do not include thrums in this portion of the thumb):

Next row: K35 (37). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 (including the stitch just cast on). Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15 thumb sts, continue in stocking st for 2” (2 ½”) ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: K1. *K2tog. Rep from * to end of row. Break yarn.

Thread the end of the yarn through remaining sts. Draw up and fasten securely.

Sew thumb seam.

Make remainder of mitt: With right side of work facing, join yarn to last st on right hand needle. Pick up and knit 2 sts at base of thumb. Knit to the end of the round
Next round: Knit, including to the 2 sts picked up at the base of the thumb 40 (44) sts.
Continue even in knit and thrum sequence until work from top of ribbing measures
5 ¾” (6 ¼”).

Shape top:

1st round: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K14 (16). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.

2nd and all even rounds: knit.

3rd round: K1. SL1. psso. K12 (14). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.

5th round: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K10 (12). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. Continue in this manner, having 2 sts less between decreases on every round to 16 sts.

Cut a tail about 18” long and thread through remaining stitches. Pull up and tie securely.

LEFT MITT

Work as for Right mitt to *thumb gusset then proceed as follows:
1st round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in each of next 2 sts. Knit to the end.

2nd and all even rounds: knit.

3rd round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc I st in next st. Knit to the end.

5th round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.

Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between inc for thumb gusset on every second row to 52 (56) sts.

Make thumb: K30 (32). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 including the cast on st. Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15sts, finish thumb and remainder of mitt as given for right mitt.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall wooltymekingston@gmail.com