WOOL-TYME Kingston Patterns

Little Leaves Baby Hat.

2011-09-19T11:51:00.000-07:00

Designed by Alana Baig for WOOL-TYME Kingston

SIZE: 12-18 months

MATERIALS: 50g Fingering weight yarn in MC.
Scraps of green fingering weight yarn for the leaves.
-2.5mm double pointed needles and/or circular needles- 16”

Tension: 28sts=4” in St st

DIRECTIONS:

Cast on 112 sts. Do not join in a round
Rows 1 and 2: *K2, P2. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Rows 3 & 4: *P2, K2. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat these 4 rows for 2.5cm or until edging is as long as you like.
Next row:*K13, increase in next stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 120 sts.

Join the stitches into a round being careful not to twist the stitches around the needle. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Begin to knit in the round until the hat measures 10cm (or desired length) from the Cast On edge.

Hat’s top shaping:
1st round: *K13, K2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 112 sts.
2nd and all even numbered rounds: Knit.
3rd round: *K12, K2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 104 sts.
5th round: *K11, K2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 96 sts.

Continue decreasing in this manner, having 1 less stitch between the decreases on every other row until 16 sts remain. If you are using a circular needle, change to double points when required.

Last Row: K2tog 8 times. 8 sts.

Work on the 8 sts for 1cm or to the desired length of the stem. Cut the yarn leaving a 40 cm tail and thread it on to a tapestry needle. Draw the yarn tail through the remaining stitches and tighten to close. Thread the yarn to the inside of the stem and fasten off.

For Leaves:
With green yarn, leave a 20cm tail and cast on 3 sts.
Row 1 and all odd numbered rows (WS): Purl.
Row 2: K1, M1, K1, M1, K1. 5 sts.
Row 4: K2, M1, K1, M1, K2. 7 sts.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 8: K3, K2tog, K2. 6 sts.
Row 10: K2, K2tog, K2. 5sts.
Row 12: K2, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
Row 14: K1, K2tog, K1. 3 sts.
Row 16: K2tog, K1. 2 sts.
Row 18: K2tog.

Cut yarn leaving a 20 cm tail and thread it on to a tapestry needle. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch. Weave tail on the under side of the leaf to secure. Use the cast on tail to attach leaf to the hat.

Copyright 2011 Alana Baig

Ridged Baktus Scarf

2011-08-29T11:03:00.000-07:00

adapted for WOOL-TYME Kingston by Alana Baig.

Although this pattern calls for DK weight yarn, it works equally well with sock weight yarn too. For best effect, choose space dyed yarns of strong contrasting colours that have a long colour repeat so that the ridges of colour will show up well. You can also use a single 50g ball of a solid colour alternated with a 50g ball of patterned or space dyed yarn. The thickness of the 2 yarns should be fairly close.

MATERIALS: 2- 50g balls DK weight yarn. (Note: if yarn is in 100g ball format, divide it into 2 smaller balls as precisely as possible)
One pair of size 4mm knitting needles.

ABBREVIATIONS:
K1tbl = Knit stitch through the back loop.
SL1= Slip 1 stitch.
PSSO=Pass the slipped stitch over the last stitch knit.

DIRECTIONS;
Cast on 4 stitches.
Rows 1 & 2: with 1st ball of yarn, knit to the last stitch, K1tbl.
Row 3: with 2nd ball of yarn, knit to the last stitch and increase by knitting through the front and back of this stitch.
Row 4: with 2nd ball of yarn, knit to the last stitch, K1tbl.

Repeat these 4 rows until approximately ½ of each ball has been used or until knitting measures at least 20 inches from the cast on edge. ( Store sample was knit in Riot DK- 300m and was increased to 60 sts.)

Decreases:
Rows 1 & 2: with 1st ball of yarn, knit to the last stitch, K1tbl.
Row 3: with 2nd ball of yarn, knit to the last 2 stitches, SL1 purlwise, K1tbl, psso.
Row 4: with 2nd ball of yarn: Knit to the last stitch, K1tbl.

Repeat these 4 rows until only 4 stitches remain. Cast off knitwise and sew in all ends. Block gently if necessary.

Bulky Earflap Hat

2011-07-27T05:20:00.000-07:00

SIZE: Finished head Circ. 20” 22” 24”.

Note that all sizes follow the same instructions but use different sized needles to achieve a bigger hat.

MATERIALS: - 100m Noro HITSUJI or any bulky weight yarn
- 8mm needles for smallest size, 10mm for med., 12mm for large.
- 2 stitch holders.

GAUGE : Small 11sts = 4”, Med. 10sts = 4”, Large 8sts = 4”.

DIRECTIONS:
Earflap – make 2:

Cast on 4 sts. Knit 1 row
1st inc. row: Mark as the right side. K1, inc. in next 2 sts by knitting into the front and the back of each,. K1. (6sts)
*Knit 3 rows.

2nd inc. row: K1, inc in next stitch, Knit to 2 sts from the end, inc. in next stitch, K1. (8 sts) Repeat from * until there are 12 stitches on the needle.
Knit 3 rows. Cut yarn and put stitches on a stitch holder.

Hat:
Cast on 5 sts, work across the right side of one of the earflaps. Turn your work so that the earflap is in the left hand and cast on 20 stitches. Turn your work back and knit across the right side of the 2nd earflap. Turn your work and cast on a final 5 stitches. (54 sts)

Knit 4 rows. Purl 1 row.

Work in Stocking stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until hat measure 5”(Small), 5 ½ “(Med), 6”(Large) from the cast on row at the front, ending with a purl row.

Crown:
1st dec. row: K2, (K3, K2tog) 10 times, K2. (44sts)
Next and every wrong side row: Purl.

Next dec. row: K2, (K2, K2tog) 10 times, K2. (34 sts)

Next dec. row: K2, (K1, K2tog) 10 times, K2. (24 sts)

Next dec. row: K2, (K2 tog) 10 times, K2. (14 sts)

Next dec. row: K2tog across. (7sts).

Cut yarn at approx 18” and thread through a tapestry needle.

Draw the needle and the yarn through the 7 remaining sts and pull up to close the gap. Sew back seam and weave in all ends. Fashion 2 woolen braids of the leftover yarn and attach to end of earflaps.

Copyright: WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall 2011.

Double Cable Mohair Scarf

2011-01-26T05:15:00.000-08:00

This scarf and the mohair of which it is made has become one of the favourites at our yarn tasting sessions of new yarns for winter 2011.
Easy yet elegant cables on both sides worked in Estelle's KIDLUXE chunky mohair that has a range of gorgeous colours AND exhibits minimal shedding!
Enjoy!

Materials:
200g of chunky weight mohair (or any chunky yarn really).
6mm needles.
Cable needle

Size:
Approx 10"x72"

Abbreviations:
C6B: Slip the next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at the back of the work. K the next 3 sts from the left hand needle, then knit the 3 sts from the cable needle.

Directions:
Cast on 54 sts loosely.
Row 1: *K6, P6. Repeat from * to last 6 sts. K6
Row 2: *P6, K6. Repeat from * to last 6 sts. P6
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Row 5: K6, P6, *C6B, P6. Repeat from * to last 6 sts. K6
Row 6: As row 2.
Rows 7-10: Repeat row 1 and 2 twice.
Row 11: As row 1.
Row 12: P6, *C6B, P6. Repeat from * to last 6 sts. P6.
Rows 13 & 14: Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Repeat these 14 rows until the yarn is nearly all gone, ending with row 3 or row 10.
Cast off loosely in pattern.

Wooly Bully Cowl

2011-01-02T06:07:00.000-08:00

About a week before Christmas, my youngest daughter asked if Mrs Claus might be able to make her a cowl with big loose stitches that would drape around her neck twice but if wrapped 3 times would choke her. Estelle's WOOLY BULLY fit the bill perfectly and it was so fast and easy to knit that I -oops, I mean Mrs Claus made 3 of them before the day.

Materials: 1 skein of WOOLY BULLY or any combination of yarns that would knit to about 8 sts / 4 inches.
12 mm needles.

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 20 sts loosely.
Row 1 (RS): K1 P1. Repeat across to the end of the row.
Row 2: Purl.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the yarn is almost all gone.
Cast off loosely and sew together the cast on and cast off edges.

NOTES: This pattern is written so that anyone, including our very beginner knitters can make this fast and easy cowl.
However, for those of you who want to perfect it, you can use a provisional cast on and graft the 2 ends together.
Blocking, although not really necessary, does make it look a whole lot nicer in a gift box, but it will still roll slightly once it has been worn, so don't bother with blocking if it's for you.

Copyright WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall, 2011.

Classic Diagonal Scarf

2010-11-30T16:50:00.000-08:00

Without question, this is the most popular scarf pattern that we have in the store. We must have 10 versions of it in different yarns at any given time.
Simple enough for a beginner, it shows off the yarn nicely in the stockinette stitch rows. And because of the diagonal slant and the 4 garter stitch rows, just a light blocking will keep it from curling the way stockinette stitch fabric usually does.

MATERIALS: 2- 50g balls of Aran or Chunky weight yarn.
One pair of size 8mm knitting needles.

DIRECTIONS;
Cast on 22 stitches loosely.
1. 1st row and all odd numbered rows: K1. Increase in the next st by knitting into the front and then into the back of the stitch. Knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
2. 2nd and 4th rows: Knit.
3. 6th, 8th and 10th rows: Purl.

725 Gardiners Road, Kingston, Ont. K7M 3Y5 email: Wooltymekingston@gmail.com

Keyhole Tank

2010-05-28T06:46:00.000-07:00

Size: Small to fit 34” chest, (Med. to fit 38” chest, Large to fit 42” chest)
Materials: 200g (300g, 300g) Aran/worsted weight summer yarn
Needles: 4 mm and 5.5mm needles or whatever needles are required to obtain the
gauge below.
Gauge: 17 sts = 10cm (4inches) using 5mm needles.

DIRECTIONS:
BACK : With 4mm needles, cast on 64 (74, 82) sts. Knit 6 rows.
-Change to 5.5mm needles and beginning with a purl row, continue in st st (P1 row, K1 row) until piece measures 13 ½ ” (13 ½ ”, 14”) from cast on edge ending with a wrong side row.
Armhole shaping:
Work 4 rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of every row. 56 (66, 74) sts. **
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 8 ¼” (9”, 9 ¾”) ending with a wrong side row.
Cast off 4 (8, 12) sts and place a marker to indicate the beginning of the neck opening. Cast off 48 (50, 50) sts and place a 2nd marker to indicate the end of the neck opening. Cast off the remaining 4 (8, 12) sts.

FRONT: Work as for back until **
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 2 (2 ¾, 3”).
Divide for front opening:
Next row: K28 (33, 37) sts, turn and leave the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.
Next row: K 1, purl to the end.
Next row: K to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Repeat these last 2 rows once more. 26 (31, 35) sts.
Work 4 rows in st st, keeping the 1st st of the purl row as a knit stitch.
Shape neck:
Next row: Cast off 8 (9, 9) sts. And purl to the end. 18 (22, 26) sts.
Work 10 rows dec 1 st at the neck edge in every row. 8 (12, 16) sts.
Work 4 (4, 2) more rows dec 1 st at the neck edge on every right side row. 6 (10, 15) sts.
Work 5 (5, 9) rows, dec 1 st at the neck edge on ever second right side row. 4 (8, 12) sts.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 8 ¼” (9”, 9 ¾”) ending with a wrong side row. Cast off.

Right side front:
With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to remaining 28 (33, 37) sts and knit to the end.
Next row: Purl to the last st, K 1.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K to the end. 27 (32, 36) sts.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.
Work 3 more rows, remembering to work the last stitch of the purl row as a knit stitch.
Shape neck:
Next row: Cast off 8 (9, 9) sts. Knit to the end. 18 (22, 26) sts.
Next row: Purl
Work 10 rows dec 1 st at the neck edge in every row. 8 (12, 16) sts.
Work 4 (4, 2) rows, dec 1 st at the neck edge on every right side row. 6 (10, 15) sts.
Work 5 (5, 9) rows dec 1 st at neck edge on every second right side row. 4 (8, 12) sts.
Continue without shaping until armhole measures 8 ¼” (9”, 9 ¾”) ending with a wrong side row. Cast off.

NECK EDGING
Join shoulder seams. With right side facing, using 4mm needles, starting at right side of neck, pick up and knit 7 (8, 8) sts from the cast off at front of neck, 21 (21, 23) from right side of front neck, 43 (45, 45) sts from back between markers, 21 (21, 23) sts from left side of front neck and 7 (8, 8) sts from cast off at front of neck. 99 (103, 107) sts.
Knit 4 rows. Cast of in Knit.

ARMHOLE EDGINGS
With right side facing, using 4mm needles, pick up and knit 84 (90, 96) sts evenly all around the armhole edge. Knit 2 rows, Cast off in Knit.

FINISHING
Sew side seams and joint neck edging at front by sewing or adding a button.

Soft Payette Summer Shawl

2010-04-15T06:51:00.000-07:00

This lovely little shawl uses the classic "Feather and Fan" pattern. It is built on a repeat of 18 stitches and so can be made wider by increasing the suggested number of stitches in groups of 18 but the noted number of stitches in this pattern makes a nice little shawl of 200g of Soft Payette.

It can also be made using any DK yarn but the "paillettes" add a touch of glimmer that is just delightful.

MATERIALS: 200g OF SOFT PAYETTE acrilic DK yarn.

4.5mm needles.

SIZE: 10" x 66"

DIRECTIONS:

Cast on 60 stitches, K 3 rows.

1st Pattern row (right side): Knit

2nd pattern row: K3, Purl to the last 3 sts. K3.

3rd Pattern row: K3, (K2tog)3 times, *(yfwd, K1)6 times, (K2tog) 6 times. Repeat from * to the last 9 stitches. (K2tog)3 times, K3.

4th pattern row: Knit.

Repeat these 4 pattern rows until desired length, ending with a 4th row, K2 more rows then cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends and block by wetting the shawl and pinning into shape on a large thick towel. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

World's Best Dishcloth

2010-03-26T13:29:00.001-07:00

I've always been shy about admitting that I don't use knitted dishcloths, especially as we sell so much dishcloth cotton to those who think that they are the greatest invention ever. I have always found that the square ones didn't fit well into small areas, they just seemed too bulky.

Then I happened to start making a "diamond" swatch of this gorgeous new Cotton Supreme Batik from Universal Yarns and ran out of time, so I decided to do a bit more shaping and cast it off. I LOVE IT. It's the perfect size and shape for really getting into the bottom of glasses while still maintaining the great absorbancy and softness of the cotton.
Super Easy to knit. Hope that you like it as much as I do.
(My husband says that I should be embarassed as it looks like half a thong. Who Cares! I say.)

Size: approx. 18”x8”. Size it not important.

Materials: 50g worsted weight cotton. (I used Cotton Supreme Batik - 1 ball makes 2 dishcloths)
4.5mm needles.

Directions: Cast on 3 stitches. Knit 1 row.
Next row: K1, yfwd, knit to the end. 4 sts.
Repeat this row until there are 65 stitches on the needle.
Next row: K1, yfwd, knit to the last 3 sts. Inc. in the next stitch, K2. 67 sts.
Repeat this row until there are 80 stitches on the needle.
Next row: K1, yfwd, K2tog, Knit to the end.
Repeat this row for as long as you wish. ( I worked 5 rows)
Cast off loosely.

Copyright, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall, 2010

WOOLY BULLY HAT AND SCARF

2010-01-21T05:52:00.000-08:00

Don't you love the look of this sideways garter stitch toque? Who knew how sharp a garter stitch rectangle could look?
WOOLY BULLY is a wonderfully coloured thick and thin yarn from Estelle Designs. We've used it here, alternating 2 different colourways. See note below.
SIZE: Hat: Average adult size. Scarf: 72” before fringe

MATERIALS: 2 skeins of WOOLY BULLY bulky fashion yarn
1 pair each of 6mm (hat) and 8 or 10mm (scarf) needles

TENSION: Hat 8sts=4” in garter stitch
Scarf 6 sts=4”.

DIRECTIONS – Hat :
Using 6mm needles, cast on 30 sts.
Knit every row until piece measure 19” – 21” when measured hanging from the needle. Cast off.
Using a piece of sturdy yarn of a similar colour, sew the cast on and cast off edges together. At the end of the seam, pick up 1 stitch at the end of each knitted ridge onto the sewing needle and thread the yarn through, all around the top of the hat. Pull tightly and sew through these ends again to secure the gather. Fasten off tightly.
Fold up brim to 3 ½” and tack in place if desired.

DIRECTIONS – Scarf :
Fringe (if desired) Cut 50 pieces of yarn 16” long before beginning.
Using 8 or 10mm needles, cast on 18 sts and knit every row until there is enough yarn left to cast off.
Cast off loosely and stretch scarf to its full length.
Using 5 pieces of the cut fringe yarn, attach strands to each corner, the middle and quarter marks of each edge using an overhand knot.

NOTE: This pattern can be made using any yarn(s) that combined or alone give the tension indicated above.
To use 2 contrasting colours of WOOLY BULLY, alternate the colours throughout every 2 rows, carrying the unused colour on the side.

Copyright 2010 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall
725 Gardiners Rd. Kingston Ontario K7M 3Y5 wooltymekingston@gmail.com

The Shoulder Wrap

2009-11-27T07:04:00.000-08:00

NOTE: Pattern is written for the small ladies’ size. Medium directions are written in brackets. If there are no bracket changes, the directions apply to both sizes.
SIZE: Small 40” around shoulders, (Medium, 46” around shoulders)
MATERIALS: 400m worsted/Aran weight yarn (500 m Chunky yarn)
5mm circ needles 60/80cm long (8mm circ needles 60/80cm long)
DIRECTIONS:
1. Cast on 200 sts loosely. Join in the round, being carful not to twist the stitches around the needle.
2. Knit in rounds for 9” (12”).
3. Dec round: *K2, K2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round. 150 sts.
4. Knit for 2”.
5. Dec round: *K1, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of the round. 100 sts. **
6. Knit 3” more. Cast off loosely.
Optional higher neck: Work to ** then Knit 2”.
Dec round: *K2, K2tog. 75sts.
Knit 2” cast off loosely.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston www.wooltymekingston.blogspot.com

The Big Collar

2009-10-23T05:25:00.000-07:00

SIZE & GAUGE: One size fits all; gauge is not very important for this project.
MATERIALS: - 150m soft chunky yarn.
- 8mm 60cm circ needles (Use a 6-6.5mm needle if you want a collar that fits closer to the neck for warmth.)
ABBREVIATIONS: M1: With the left hand needle, and coming from the front, pick up the top strand between the 2 needles. With the right hand needle, knit this strand from the back.
M1P: With the left hand needle and coming from the back, pick up the top strand between the 2 needles. With the right hand needle, purl the strand from the front.
DIRECTIONS: Cast on 80 sts. Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches around the needle.
Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 3”.
Next Round: *K1, M1, K1, P2. Repeat from * to end of round. (100 sts) Place a marker on this round.
Next Round: *K3, P2. Repeat from * to the end of round.
Repeat this last row for 1 ½” from the marker..
Next Round: *K3, P1, M1P, P1. Repeat from * to the end of the round (120 sts). Move the marker up to mark this round.
Next Round: *K3, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat this last row for 1 ½” from the marker.
Next Round: *K2, M1, K1, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round (140 sts). Move the marker up to mark this round.
Next Round: *K4, P3. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat this last round for 1 ½” from the marker.
Next Round: *K4, P2, M1P, P1. Repeat from * to the end of the round. (160 sts)
Next Round: *K4, P4. Repeat from * to the end of the round. Repeat this last round until there is just enough yarn to cast off loosely (approx 2m).
Cast off loosely and sew in the tails.
Note: a fine band of elastic thread can be worked in when the collar is finished at the base of the neck to give it a more fitted look.
725 Gardiners Road, Kingston, Ont. K7M 3Y5 email: Wooltyme@kingston.net

The Little Collar Scarf.

2009-09-30T16:30:00.000-07:00

SIZE: 35” x 7”
MATERIALS: 150m Manos Clasica Naturals (or any Aran weight yarn)
(Optional: 50m of a contrasting colour.)
6mm needles
3 double pointed needles, size 4mm.

GAUGE: Tension is not too important for this project; approx. 16sts = 4” in garter stitch with larger needles.

Abbreviations: SL1p = slip the first st of each row of the garter stitch sections as if you were doing a purl with the yarn in the front, then move the yarn between the needles to the back to knit the next stitch. This creates a straighter edge along the scarf.

DIRECTIONS:
1st End: Cast on 6 sts.
Rows 1: SL1p, K1, yfwd, K to the end of the row. (7sts).
Repeat this row until there are 16 sts on the needle.
**Next Row: SL1p, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K to the end of the row.
Repeat this row.
Next Row: SL1p, K1, yfwd, K to the end of the row. (17sts)
Repeat this row. (18sts)
Repeat these last 4 rows (from **) until there are 26 sts.

Ribbing: Using 2 of the double pointed needles, slip the first stitch onto one of the needles, then slip the 2nd stitch onto the other needle. Slip stitch #3 onto the 1st of the double pointed needles, next to stitch #1. Slip stitch #4 onto the other needle, next to st #2. Continue in this manner until there are 13 stitches on each of the double pointed needles.

If using a different colour for the ribbing, attach it to the main colour and begin the next row on the first of the double pointed needles, using the 3rd needle to work stitches.
Row 1: (Right Side): *K1, P1. Repeat to last st. K1. (13 sts)
Row 2: *P1, K1. Repeat to last st. P1.
Repeat these 2 rows until the ribbing measures 2 ½ inches ending with a wrong side row.
Break the yarn and attach it to the 1st stitch on the right side of the 2nd double pointed needle.
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 of the ribbing until piece measures the same as the first one, ending with wrong side row.
With right side of needle 2 facing, use the 3rd double pointed needle to slip the 1st stitch from needle 2 then slip the 1st stitch from needle 1. Continue slipping stitches alternately from needles 2 and 1 until all 26 stitches are on the 3rd double pointed needle.
Change to 6mm needles (and main colour for 2 colour version) and Knit one row.

Collar:
Each row: Slip, K1, yfwd, K2tog, Knit to the end.
Repeat this row until the collar measures 20” or desired length.

Ribbed Insert:
Dec. row: With main colour *K2tog. Repeat from * across. (13sts)
Repeat rows 1 & 2 of ribbing section above until the measures 2 ½ inches.
Next row: Inc. in every stitch. (26sts)

2nd end:
Row 1: SL1p, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K2tog, K to the end. (25sts)
Repeat this row. (24 sts)
Row 3: SL1p, K1, yfwd, K2tog.
Repeat this row. (24sts)
Repeat these 4 rows until there are 16 sts.
Repeat Row 1 until there are 6 sts left.
Cast off. Sew in all ends.

Copyright 2009, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall
725 Gardiners Rd, Kingston ON
wooltymekingston@gmail.com

Cloche Hat

2009-08-31T11:40:00.000-07:00

SIZE: Small: 21” (med 23”, large 25”)

MATERIALS:
-approx 130m of aran weight wool, cotton or silk (pictured in Manos Classica)
-4.5mm needles. (circular or flex needles will give you a chance to gauge the fit of your hat before it’s finished.)

GAUGE: 17sts=4”
ABBREVIATIONS:
SSK: slip the next 2 stitches onto the right hand needle knitwise. Reinsert the left hand needle into the front of these 2 sts and knit the 2 sts together. SL1= slip the next stitch onto the right hand needle. PSSO= Pass the slipped stitch over.

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 93 (101,109) sts.
Knit 2 rows, Purl 1 row.
Cont in st st (K1row, P1row) until piece measures 6” for plain rim or 7” for rolled edge hat.

Decrease:
1st dec row: K1 (SSK, K18 (20,22), K2tog, K1) 4 times. 85 (93, 101) sts.
Next row and all alt rows: Purl.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K16 (18, 20), K2tog, K1) 4 times. 77 (85, 93) sts.
Continue decreasing in this manner on every 2nd row, having 2 less sts between decreases to 53 (61, 69) sts.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K4 (6,8), K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 37 (45, 53) sts.
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K0 (2,4) K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 21 (29, 37) sts.
Small size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 13 sts.
Med size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SL1, K2tog, PSSO, K2tog) 4 times. 13 sts.
Large size only: Next dec row: K1 (SSK, SSK, K2tog, K2tog, K1) 4 times. 21 sts
Next dec row: K1 (SSK, K2 tog, K1) 4 times. 13 sts.
All sizes: Next dec row: K1 (SL1, K1, PSSO, K1) 4 times. 9 sts.

Finishing: Break yarn and thread onto a darning needle. Pass the yarn through the remaining sts and draw up tightly. Sew up back seam, making sure to reverse seam for the last inch at the bottom if you are making a rolled brim hat.

Child's Frilly Hat of Cascade Fixation Cotton

2009-06-28T18:55:00.000-07:00

Designed by Deb White

Note: Directions are given for a small toddler size. For child’s size 2 follow instructions given in brackets.

MATERIALS: 1- 50g balls of Fixation cotton with spandex.
One pair each of size 3mm and 3.75 mm needles. (Larger needles will give a more relaxed fit.)

ABBREVIATIONS:
Yfwd: Bring the yarn forward between the needles, as if preparing to purl.
K2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
PSSO: pass the slipped stitch over.

DIRECTIONS:
1. BRIM: Using 3.75mm needles, cast on 264 (297) sts.
2. Knit 2 rows, Purl 1 row.
3. Next Row: *Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO. Repeat from * to end of row. 88 (99) sts.
4. BAND: Change to 3mm needles. Beginning on wrong side row, continue as follows: K 1 row, P 1 row, K1 row, P 2 rows.
5. K 1 row, P 1 row. Next row: K1, **yfwd, K2tog. Repeat from ** to last st. K1. K 1 row.
6. Repeat the 4 rows of #5 once (twice) more.
7. Change to 3.75mm needles. Beginning with a K row (right side), continue in stockinette st for 8cm (12cm), ending with a purl row.
8. CROWN: (K9, K2tog) to end of needle. 80 (90) sts. P 1 row.
9. (K8, K2tog) to end of needle. 72 (81) sts. Purl 1 row.
10. Continue decreasing 8(9) sts in this manner, on every right side row until 11 sts remain. Cut yarn and draw securely through all sts. Sew up back seam.

Copyright, 2009 Deb White.

FELTED BALLS

2009-06-28T11:52:00.000-07:00

These felted and fiberfill stuffed knitted balls have dozens of uses: baby and toddler toys, a base for stuffed animals, dryer balls, Christmas and decorations for other events. Let your imagination run wild as to colour combinations and uses.
Pictured above are one ball made of Chunky weight felting yarn and 3 balls made of worsted weight. Dimensions and materials are given for the Chunky ball first (with worsted weight materials and dimensions in bold & brackets.)

Size: varies depending on yarn used and amount of felting.
Chunky ball approx. 12” around. (Worsted ball approx. 9” around.)

Materials: A total of approx 100-200m of Chunky weight pure wool. (50-100m of a worsted weight pure wool.)
Polyester fiberfill, or clean sheep fleece.
Pair of 8mm needles (6mm needles.)
Sturdy sewing thread and needle.

Colour changes: No colour indications are given in the knitting pattern. The following will help you plan the colour scheme of your balls.
- The blue/green ball alternates colours for each of the 10 sections of the ball. Do not cut the yarn after each section but just pick up the next colour when needed gently stranding it across the row ends of the previous section.
-The red ball is made of one colour with an added thread of silver metallic yarn in alternating sections.
-The “basketball” uses the brown colour throughout except for the 1st and 12th rows of each section. Do not cut the yarn after each colour use but just pick up the next colour when needed, gently stranding it across the row ends of the previous section.
-The multi-coloured ball uses mini skeins of rug/felting yarn (available at WOOL-TYME Kingston): 2-3 chunky skeins 3m each (or 1-2 skeins - worsted weight 5m each) for each colour.

Directions: The balls pictured here have a slightly flattened form (like a pumpkin) To achieve this look, follow the first set of numbers. For a more rounded sphere, follow the 2nd set of numbers in brackets.

Cast on 21 (27) sts.
Row 1: knit
Short Row 2: K14 (20)sts and turn the work, leaving 7 stitches unworked.
Short Row 3: SL1, K6 (K12). Turn the work, leaving 7 stitches unworked.
Short Row 4: SL 1, K8 (K14). Turn.
Short Row 5: SL1, K10 (K16). Turn.
Short Row 6: SL1, K12 (K18). Turn.
Short Row 7: SL1, K14 (K20). Turn.
Short Row 8: SL 1, K16 (K22). Turn.
Short Row 9: SL 1, K18 (K24). Turn.
Short Row 10: SL1, K19 (K25). Turn
Short Row 11: SL 1, K20 (K26). Turn.
Row 12: Knit.
Repeat these 12 rows for a total of 10 sections, changing colours as desired.
Cast off loosely and sew the cast on edge to the cast off edge. (If you prefer to use a provisional cast on, Do not cast off and these 2 rows can be grafted together using the Kitchener stitch.) Use the yarn and needle to gather the side rows around one end of the ball and draw up tightly. Secure VERY WELL so that it doesn’t come apart during the felting process. Leave the other end open for stuffing.

Felting and finishing: Put each ball into its own washing bag (a pillow case or lingerie bag) and secure the ends well. Wash in a top loading machine using the hot wash/cold rinse setting with the lowest water level and maximum agitation. (I add a kettle of boiling water to the tub as it’s filling). When the cycle is finished, check for size. You want the stitches to be almost completely invisible and part of the fabric. If your ball has not felted enough, repeat the process.
Air dry and stuff firmly with fiberfill or fleece. Using the heavy duty thread, draw up the stitches from around the stuffing hole and close, securing firmly.

Copyright, WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall, 2009

BEADED NECKLACE, BRACELET AND ANKLET

2009-04-28T16:23:00.000-07:00

SIZE: necklace: 7 ½” + Icord,
Bracelet: 6 ½”
Anklet: 8”
MATERIALS: a small amount of fingering weight/ fine 4 ply cotton (#5 crochet cotton)
4oz of #6 beads,
toggle clasp or other style of fastener,

2 double pointed needles 2.75mm

TENSION: not crucial for these projects.

Abbreviations: B-yfwd = Slide a bead from the working yarn up to the needle and bring the yarn between the needles to the front of the work. Yfwd: bring the yarn between the needle to the front of the work. Kf&b = increase by knitting in the front and the back of the next stitch. K2tog = knit the next 2 stitches together. SL = slip the stitches to the right hand needle without working them.

DIRECTIONS: necklace:
NOTE- before beginning, string at least 50 beads onto the knitting cotton with a beading needle. The beads will be drawn up into position individually as needed during the knitting.
Cast on 5sts. (use the crochet method if you are familiar with it, as these stitches will be picked up later to create the I-cord)
1st row: K3, Kf&b, K1. (6sts)
2nd row (right side): K4, yfwd, SL 2.
3rd row: K4, Kf&b, K1. (7sts)
4th row: K5, yfwd, SL 2.
Continue in this manner, increasing on every second row and slipping the last 2 sts of the right side row to create a fine I-cord edging, until there are 13 sts ending with a right side row:

1st pattern row: K3, (B-yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2tog) twice, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K to the last 2 sts making sure that the bead on the B-yfwd stitches stay to the left side of your stitch as you are working it. TURN the work leaving the last 2 sts unworked on the right hand needle; bring the yarn to the back between the needles and work the following row.
3rd and 4th pattern rows: K to last 2 stitches, yfwd, SL2.
5th pattern row: K3, (yfwd, K2tog, B-yfwd, K2tog) twice, yfwd, SL2
6th row: Repeat row 2.
7th and 8th pattern rows: repeat rows 3 and 4.
Repeat these 8 rows until the beaded section is about 6 ½” long or the desired length.

1st dec. row: Knit to the last 2 sts, K2tog. (12 sts)
2nd row: knit.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 5 stitches left.
I-cord: Turn the work so that the right side is facing you. K5. DO NOT TURN.
Next row: Slide the stitches to the other end of the double pointed needle and gently tugging the yarn that is attached to the last stitch, Knit the 1st stitch and then the next 4 stitches.
Repeat this row, working always from the right side of the work until it is about 5” – 7” long. Put stitches on a stitch holder and cut a tail about 18” long.
With the right side of the work facing you, pick up 5 stitches and work the I -cord as on the other side. Sew clasp components in place at the end of the I-cords.

BEADED BRACELET
MATERIALS: A small quantity of fingering weight cotton,

3 oz of #6 beads,

1 large bead or button,

2 double pointed needles 2.75mm.

DIRECTIONS: bracelet
String at least 50 beads onto the knitting cotton using a beading needle.
Cast on 3 sts leaving an 18” tail.
1st row: K to last stitch, Kf&b. (4sts)
2nd row (right side): K to last stitch, Kf&b. (5sts).
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 11 stitches.

1st pattern row: K3, (B-yfwd, K2tog) 3 times, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K to the last 2 sts making sure that the bead on the B-yfwd stitches stay to the left side of your stitch as you are working it. Yfwd, SL2.
3rd and 4th pattern rows: K to last 2 stitches, yfwd, SL2.
5th pattern row: K3, (yfwd, K2tog) 3 times, yfwd, SL2
6th row: Repeat row 2.
7th and 8th pattern rows: repeat rows 3 and 4.
Repeat these 8 rows until the beaded section is about 5 ½” long or the desired length.

Decrease row: Knit to the last 2 sts, K2tog. (10 sts)
Repeat this row until there are 3 sts left.
I-cord: K3. DO NOT TURN YOUR WORK.
Next row: * Slide the stitches to the other end of the double pointed needle and gently tugging the yarn that is attached to the last stitch. Knit the 3 stitches.
Repeat from * until the I-cord is about 1 1/2”- 2” long. Cut yarn at about 18” long and thread onto a needle. Slip the stitches onto the yarn and draw up tightly. Sew into a loop to accommodate the bead/button. Sew the bead/button to the other end of the bracelet.

BEADED ANKLET

MATERIALS: A small amount of fingering weight cotton, 12 medium size beads, 1 larger bead for attaching, small crochet hook, 2 double pointed needles 2.75mm.

DIRECTIONS: Anklet

Do not string beads onto the working yarn.
Cast on 3 sts. Work I-Cord as described in the bracelet for 1 ½” – 2”.
Next row: Kf&b, K to the end. (4sts)
Repeat this row until there are 7 sts.
1st pattern row: K3, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, SL2.
2nd pattern row: K5, yfwd, SL2
3rd & 4th rows: Repeat rows 1&2.
5th pattern row: as row 1.
6th pattern row: K1, Place a Bead in the following manner: Pick up a bead with the small crochet hook. Remove the knitted stitch from the right hand needle. Draw the knitted stitch through the bead and place the stitch back on the needle. K4, yfwd, SL2.
7th & 8th rows: Repeat rows 1 & 2.
Repeat these 8 rows until the anklet snuggly around the ankle, measuring from the first increase row.
Next row: K2tog, K5 (6sts)
Repeat this row until there are 3 sts remaining. Cut the yarn at 18” and thread through a needle. Draw the stitches onto the yarn and draw up to tighten. Sew the larger bead to the end of the anklet and make a loop of the beginning I-cord to create a button hole for the fastening bed.

Copyright WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Woodall 2009

Fingerless Gloves

2009-02-25T05:02:00.000-08:00

SIZE: one size fits most. (For a smaller or larger glove, subtract or add stitches in increments of 4.)

MATERIALS: -1 skein (125m) of Manos del Uruguay wool or other aran weight yarn.
-5mm needles

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 45 stitches.
1st row: (K3, P1.) Repeat to last st. K1.
Repeat this row until glove measures approx. 8”. (Note: This is not a K3, P1 rib. It is sometimes called a “mistaken rib” because only the middle one of each of the K3 stitches lines up.) Leave stitches on a stitch holder and break the yarn leaving about 40” tail to cast off. Work the second glove as the first and cast off at 8” if you have enough yarn to knit the glove that long. (If you don’t have enough yarn, measure the 2nd glove and pull back the first glove to match the length of the 2nd one.) Cast off loosely.

Finishing:
Starting at the cast off edge, sew up the side seam 5 ½”. Starting at the cast on edge, sew seam 1 ½”, leaving 1” opening for the thumb. For extra stability you can sew a stitch between each of the fingers; the gloves will stay in place better that way.

Copyright 2009 WOOL-TYME Kingston Anne Woodall

Thrum Mittens on 2 needles

2009-01-29T05:44:00.000-08:00

Materials: 100g worsted weight wool
Thrum roving
1 pair of 4mm needles.

Tension: 20 sts = 4in with 4mm needles in sticking st without the thrum.
Size: The instructions are written for a woman’s mitt with necessary changes for man’s size given in brackets.

Note: To make a thrum: Pull off (do not cut) a 3” piece of fleece or roving (using 4 strands of roving). Twist this length of fleece or roving slightly in the center so that it is about the same thickness as your yarn. Place the thrum in the stitch indicated in your pattern by following the k1th directions given below in every 3rd stitch of every 4th row of the main part of the mitten.

k1th: (knit 1 thrum): Insert right needle into next st knitwise. Wrap a 3 inch piece of thrum around the right needle leaving the ends to the wrongside of the work. Wrap yarn around needle and knit as if with 2 strands (the yarn and the thrum). When purling this stitch on the next row, follow the directions for p1tbl given below.
p1tbl: purl the next stitch through the back loop. This stitch is used every time you purl a thrum stitch from the previous row to help lock in the fleece.

Right Mitt
Cuff:

Cast on 42 (44)sts. Work in K2 P2 rib for 4 to 6 inches.
From this point on, thrums are to be worked in every 3rd st of every 4th row.

Change to Stocking stitch and work 4 (6) rows, ending with a purl row.

*Thumb gusset:

1st row (right side): K21 (23). Inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts. Knit to end of row.
2nd and all even rows: Purl
3rd row: K21 (23) Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th row: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Inc 11 st in next st. Knit to end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between the increases for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts. Purl 1 more row.

Make thumb:

K35 (37). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 (including the stitch just cast on). Turn. Cast on 1 st.
Working on these 15 thumb sts, continue in stocking st for 2” (2 ½”) ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: K1. *K2tog. Rep from * to end of row. Break yarn. Thread the end of the yarn through remaining sts. Draw up and fasten securely. Sew thumb seam.

Make remainder of mitt: With right side of work facing, join yarn to last st on right hand needle. Pick up and knit 2 sts at base of thumb. Knit across sts on left hand needle.
Next row: Purl across, purling to the 2 sts picked up at the base of the thumb 40 (44) sts.
Continue even in stocking st until work from top of ribbing measures 5 ¾” (6 ¼”) ending a wrong side row.

Shape top:

1st row: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K14 (16). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
2nd and all even rows: purl.
3rd row: K1. SL1. psso. K12 (14). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
5th row: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K10 (12). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. Continue in this manner, having 2 sts less between dec on every right side row to 16 sts. Cast off purlways. Sew top and side seam.

LEFT MITT

Work as for Right mitt to *thumb gusset then proceed as follows:
1st row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in each of next 2 sts. Knit to the end.
2nd and all even rows: Purl.
3rd row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc I st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th row: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between inc for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts. Purl on more row.

Make thumb: K30 (32). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 including the cast on st. Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15sts, finish thumb and remainder of mitt as given for right mitt.

Thrum Mittens on 4 needles

2009-01-29T05:16:00.000-08:00

Materials: 100g worsted weight wool
Thrum roving
4-double pointed 4mm needles.

Size: The instructions are written for a woman’s mitt with necessary changes for man’s size given in brackets.
TENSION 20 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) in stocking stitch with thrums knitted in.

Note: To make a thrum: Pull off (do not cut) a 3” piece of fleece or roving (using 3 strands of roving). Twist this length of fleece or roving slightly in the center so that it is about the same thickness as your yarn. Place the thrum in the stitch indicated in your pattern by following the k1th directions given below in every 3rd stitch of every 4th row of the main part of the mitten.

k1th: (knit 1 thrum): Insert right needle into next st knitwise. Wrap a 3 inch piece of thrum around the right needle leaving the ends to the inside of the work. Wrap yarn around needle and knit as if with 2 strands (the yarn and the thrum). When working this stitch on the next row, follow the directions for k1tbl given below.
k1tbl: knit the next stitch through the back loop. This stitch is used every time you knit a thrum stitch from the previous row to help lock in the fleece.

Right Mitt
Cuff:

Cast on 42 (44) sts. Join in a round, making sure not to twist the stitches around the needles. Work in K2 P2 rib for 4 to 6 inches.
Knit 2 rounds.
3rd round: *K2, k1th. Repeat from * to end. (or last 2 sts for larger size. K2)
4th round: *K2, k1tbl. Repeat from * to end. (or last 2 sts for larger size. K2) From this point on, thrums are to be worked in every 3rd st of every 4th row.
Knit 4 (6) rounds.

*Thumb gusset:

1st round: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts. Knit to end of round.
2nd and all even rounds: knit.
3rd rounds: K21 (23) Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.
5th rounds: K21 (23). Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Inc 11 st in next st. Knit to end.
Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between the increases for thumb gusset on every right side row to 52 (56) sts.

Knit 1 more round.

Make thumb (Note: Do not include thrums in this portion of the thumb):

Next row: K35 (37). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 (including the stitch just cast on). Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15 thumb sts, continue in stocking st for 2” (2 ½”) ending with right side facing for next row.
Next row: K1. *K2tog. Rep from * to end of row. Break yarn.

Thread the end of the yarn through remaining sts. Draw up and fasten securely.

Sew thumb seam.

Make remainder of mitt: With right side of work facing, join yarn to last st on right hand needle. Pick up and knit 2 sts at base of thumb. Knit to the end of the round
Next round: Knit, including to the 2 sts picked up at the base of the thumb 40 (44) sts.
Continue even in knit and thrum sequence until work from top of ribbing measures
5 ¾” (6 ¼”).

Shape top:

1st round: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K14 (16). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.

2nd and all even rounds: knit.

3rd round: K1. SL1. psso. K12 (14). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.

5th round: K1. SL1. K1. psso. K10 (12). K2tog. K2. SL1. K1. psso. Knit to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. Continue in this manner, having 2 sts less between decreases on every round to 16 sts.

Cut a tail about 18” long and thread through remaining stitches. Pull up and tie securely.

LEFT MITT

Work as for Right mitt to *thumb gusset then proceed as follows:
1st round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in each of next 2 sts. Knit to the end.

2nd and all even rounds: knit.

3rd round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc I st in next st. Knit to the end.

5th round: K16 (18). Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Inc 1 st in next st. Knit to the end.

Continue in this manner, having 2 sts more between inc for thumb gusset on every second row to 52 (56) sts.

Make thumb: K30 (32). Turn. Cast on 1 st. P14 including the cast on st. Turn. Cast on 1 st. Working on these 15sts, finish thumb and remainder of mitt as given for right mitt.

KNITTED SATCHEL

2008-11-24T11:12:00.000-08:00

SIZE: 7”x3”x10”
MATERIALS: - 3 balls (Approx 300 m chunky yarn)
- 5.mm needles 2 - 1” buttons
- 12”x12” piece of plastic canvas.
GAUGE : 17.5 sts = 4” in st st
DIRECTIONS:
Bag: Cast on 33 sts
Knit 3 rows
Beginning with a knit row, work in st st (K 1 row, P 1 row) until work measures 23 inches from the beginning.
Continue in garter st (K every row) until garter st section measures 6 ½ inches.
Button hole row: K 5, cast off 3 sts, K to last 8 sts, cast off 3, K to end of row.
Next row: K across, casting on 3 sts above the cast off sts of the previous row.
K 1 more row. Cast off.

Strap: Cast on 13 sts. Work in st st for 10 inches.
Next row: Sl 1, K 1 PSSO, K9, K2tog. (9 sts) (NOTE: for wider band, continue on the original 13 sts)
Continue in Garter st until strap measures 30 inches from the beginning when lightly stretched.
Next row: (if working on 11 sts) K1, inc in next st, K to last 2 sts, inc in next st, K1. (13 sts)
Continue in st st for another 10 inches, making sure that the knit side is facing the same direction as the first side section of the strap.

Finishing: Fold st st part of the bag in half and place a marker at the halfway point on each side. Mark the center st of the cast on and cast off edges of strap.
Join the st st portion of the bag to the st st portions of the strap matching the markers.

Bottom: Cut 2 sections of plastic canvas 3”x7” (or to match the size of the bottom of the bag. Using nylon thread, stack the 2 pieces of plastic canvas on top of each other. Turn the bag inside out and sew the plastic canvas along the seams at the bottom of each side of the bag and along the bottom.
If desired, cut 2 more pieces of plastic canvas 3”x2” and sew on the upper sides of the bag on the inside just below the garter stitch strap section.
Sew buttons in position.

HONEYCOMB MITTENS

2008-10-22T06:42:00.000-07:00

Adapted by Louise King.

Materials: 100g each of 2 colours of Manos del Uruguay wool or any other Worsted/Aran weight wool. The greater the colour contrast, the nicer the effect.

1 set of double pointed needles: size 3.25mm for large child’s mitt, (3.75mm for small lady’s), (4 mm for larger lady's ).

Directions:
With main colour which will be the outside of the honeycomb pattern cast on 42 sts and divide evenly onto 3 needles. Join in a round and work in K1 P1 rib for 3 inches. Increase 6 sts evenly on last round of rib. (48sts)
-Purl 2 rounds.

Honeycomb pattern:
Contrast colour: Round 1:*K4. SL2 purlwise. Repeat from * to end of round. Repeat Round 1 four times more. (5 rounds in total).
Main colour: Rounds 6 &7: Purl.
Contrast colour: Round 8: K1. *SL2 purlwise.K4. Repeat from * to end of round. Repeat Round 8 four times more. (5 rounds in total).
Main colour: Rounds 13 & 14: Purl.
Repeat rounds 1 to 13.

Thumb opening:
Main colour: Next round: P2. Place 8 sts on holder for thumb. Cast on 8 sts over thumb opening. Purl to end of round.
Repeat rounds 1-14 three times more, then rounds 1-6 again.

Decrease:
Main colour: 1st round: *K4. K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1 round after each decrease round.
3rd round: *K3, K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
5th round: *K2. K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: *K1. K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. Cut yarn and draw through all the stitches left on the needles. Secure.

Thumb:

Contrast Colour: Knit across 8 sts from the st holder. Pick up and knit 8 sts from the cast on edge over thumb opening. Divide sts between the 3 needles and work in knit rounds until thumb is long enough.
Decrease row: *K2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. Cut yarn and draw through all the stitches left on the needles. Secure.

REVERSIBLE CABLE SCARF

2008-08-21T14:42:00.000-07:00

The reality of cable knits is that they have a right side and a wrong side, making it difficult to use these beautiful knitting features in projects that need to be nice on both sides. This amazing technique eliminates the problem by incorporating a rib pattern into the cable, allowing the knit stitches to show nicely on both sides.

SIZE: 7” x 40” approx.
MATERIALS: 200 g worsted weight yarn (400m)
5mm needles

GAUGE: Tension is not important for this project.

ABBREVIATIONS:
RC8F: Reversible Cable 8 to the Front: Slip the next 4 sts onto a cable needle and hold to the front of your work. (K1, P1) twice. (K1, P1) twice from the cable needle.
RC8B: Reversible Cable 8 to the Back: Slip the next 4 sts onto a cable needle and hold at the back of your work. (K1, P1) twice. (K1, P1) twice from the cable needle.

DIRECTIONS:
Cast on 50 sts.
Rows 1, 2, 5, 6, 10: * K1, P1. Repeat from * across the row.
Rows 3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12: *(P1, K1) 3 times, (K1, P1) 8 times. Repeat from * once more. (P1, K1) 3times.
Row 9: *(K1, P1) 3 times, RC8F, RC8B. Repeat from * once more. (K1, P1) 3 times.

Repeat rows 1 – 12 until desired length. Cast Off loosely in rib.

KNITTING SOCKS ON A SINGULAR CIRCULAR NEEDLE

2008-07-28T15:49:00.000-07:00

This is not exactly a pattern but more a way to use your favourite sock pattern and turn it into a project that can be knit on a single circular needle.

As you can see from the picture, it is a bit of an odd looking way of knitting socks, or any other project whose circumference is smaller than the length of your circular needle, but it's easy and with a little patience, you may be hooked on this method that never has you worrying about double pointed needles falling from your project.

To achieve the same results with this method there are probably many different ways to hold your needles, to get the stitches around the needle, to work your project to its successful completion, but this is the way that I find the easiest... Give it a try for the fun of it.

MATERIALS:

- A sock pattern,

-appropriate yarn for your pattern,

-circular needles at least 32" (80cm) long of the same size that the pattern calls for.

NOTE: I strongly recommend using Addi Turbo needles (lace or regular) or any other premium needles with soft, flexible wires.

-2 stitch markers of different colours.

Warning! As with any knitting project, it's usually the first 1% of the whole darn thing that is the hardest, so don't worry if you are having difficulty the first time you try this method. You can do it on a smaller number of stitches at first (at least 24) using chunky yarn and 5mm needles, just to get the hang of what's going on. And above all, do not use new circular needles with curly wires. Always straighten them out by using a warm hair dryer or by pouring very hot water over them and picking them up to dry and cool with a fork.

DIRECTIONS:

Casting on

-Using the circular needle cast on 1/2 the number of stitches that you require using the knit-on or cable cast on method.

-Place a marker to indicate the centre of the round of stitches (CM), and cast on the rest of the required number of stitches.

First Row:

-Slide all of the stitches so that they are all on the wire part of the needle and fold the wire at the CM.

-Gently pull the wire between the stitches at the CM and create a loop of wire with 1/2 of the stitches on one side of the wire and 1/2 on the other side of the wire.

-Slide the first 1/2 of the stitches (the part that has the cast-on tail) back on to a working end of the needle. If it makes it easier, you can tie a gentle knot using the cast on tail and the working yarn to hold this first row together making sure that the stitches are not twisted around the needle. (If it is against all of your principles of knitting to leave a knot in your work, you can tie a bow and undo it later when it's time to weave your ends in. )

-Slide the second 1/2 of the stitches (the ones that have the working yarn attached to them) as far on the wire as they will comfortably go without pulling the wire at the CM back into the work. (the CM is there for you to catch the wire and pull it back out should this happen.)

-Place a marker of a different colour at the end where the working yarn is to indicate the end of each round (EM).

-With the working needle full of stitches in your left hand and the driver needle without stitches in your right hand begin to knit as usual, creating a loop with the wire at the EM. (You may want to hold this wire out of your way with the thumb of your left hand.)

-Work across the first 1/2 of the stitches according to your pattern.

-Pull the wire loop at the EM so that the second 1/2 of the stitches are just at the base of the working end of the needle.

-Slide the stitches that have just been worked back on to the wire, emptying the right hand needle and place the CM on to the right hand needle, and work the 2nd set of stitches as usual, using your left thumb to keep the loop of wire out of your way.

(NOTE: When making the switch between the 2 sets of stitches, be careful not to pick up the yarn from under the driver needle, which will wrap it around creating a yarn over stitch, which will be as irritating as all get out!)

-When you reach the EM, line the 2 sets of stitches up side by side, to make double sure that they are not twisted around the needles.

The second row and beyond

-Slide the first set of stitches to the base of the empty needle and place it in your left hand.

-Slide the second set of stitches that have just been worked back on the wire emptying that needle for your right hand. Then slide the first set all the way on to the working needle in your left hand, in position to be knit.

-Place the EM on the right hand needle and work across this first set of stitches as usual to the CM.

-Slide the next set of stitches to be worked to the base of the working needle and slide the set that has just been knitted back on to the wire emptying the right hand needle.

-Then slide the stitches to be worked on to the working needle in your left hand and move the CM to the empty right hand needle. Work across this set of stitches as usual to the EM.

Repeat this "second row" method until the leg is the required length.

Heel

As the heel is usually worked on 1/2 of the stitches, the needles are already set up for you to begin as soon as you arrive at the EM.

Remove both markers and keep for later.

Working back and forth using both working ends of the needle on the first 1/2 of the stitches only, work the heel flap and turning of the heel according to your pattern directions.

Gusset

End the heel turning rows on a right side row.

-Drop the left hand needle.

-Holding the left side of the heel flap in your left hand and using the heel needle in you right hand, pick up and knit the required number of stitches.

-Slide the stitches from the sock that have not been part of the heel to the base of the left hand needle. Slide the stitches from the heel on to the wire and place the EM on the right hand needle.

-Work across this instep stitches and slide these on to the wire, emptying the right hand needle. -Place the CM on the right hand needle.

-Holding the right side of the heel flap in your left hand, pick up and knit the required number of stitches, leaving a wire loop at the CM and the EM.

-When you come to the end of the heel flap stitches, work across the stitches from the bottom of the heel and down the other side to the CM. (NOTE: It may be a bit awkward getting all of the heel stitches onto the working ends of the needle, but persist. Soon when the decreases begin it will become easier.)

-Work the gusset decreases as indicated placing the SSK or PSSO decreases after the CM and the K2tog decreases before the EM. Remember to knit a round between each set of decreases.

-Work the foot as with the leg, to the desired length.

Toe shaping

-Decrease as given in your pattern placing the SSK or PSSO decreases at the beginning of each of the needles and the K2tog decreases at the end of each of the needles.

Bind off or graft the toe as you would normally do, sliding both sets of stitches to the tips of the working needles.

THE MAGIC SECRET TO AVOID "LADDERS" WHERE THE NEEDLES MEET:

For those of you who have persisted to the end of this post, your patience and persistence will be rewarded as I share the secret of eliminating those nasty "ladders" that sometimes show up when you join your needles, whether in 3 needle knitting or circular knitting. The whole trick is to give a gentle but firm tug on the SECOND stitch of each needle - not the 1st one, which ironically and irritatingly seems to worsen the problem. Try it! It really works well.

FRINGED SHAWL OF RIBBON YARN

2008-05-28T17:09:00.001-07:00

MATERIALS: -3 balls (400m without fringe, 450m with fringe) of Elba ribbon yarn (or other shiny fine tape type yarn).

8mm needles.

DIRECTIONS: Cast on 2 sts.
Row 1: K1, Yfwd, Knit to the end.
Repeat this row until the 1st ball is finished.
Next row: K1, Yfwd, Knit to the last 3 sts, increase in the next stitch, K2.
Repeat this row until there are approximately 180 sts. Cast off very loosely.

Fringes: Cut approximately 35 pieces of yarn 36 inches long.
Fold each piece in 2 then fold in half and pull through the first Yfwd space and loop over to make a tassel of 1 loop and 2 ends.
Repeat for each tassel, spacing them evenly up the outside edges of the shawl in every 2nd Yfwd space, leaving 24 inches at each end of the shawl free of tassels (for tying).

Note: When joining another ball of yarn, tie the ends together, leaving 6 inch tails. When the shawl is finished, sew the tails through the fabric of the shawl and secure with a few stitches of sewing thread if desired.

Pocket Purse

2008-04-30T10:09:00.001-07:00

SIZE: 5" x 8"

MATERIALS: 2- 50g balls of Lang MALIBU

or 250m of any firm Worsted Weight yarn
One pair of size 3.75mm needles.
2- 3.25mm double pointed needles.
1 button.

DIRECTIONS:
1. Using 2 strands of the yarn held together, cast on 26 sts.
2. K 3 rows
3. Beginning and ending with a Purl row, continue in stocking st (K1 row, P1 row) until work measures 7 inches from the beginning.
4. Next row: Purl. (fold line)
5. Beginning with a purl row, continue in stocking st until work measures 7 ½ inches from the fold line, ending with a right side row.

Flap:
Row 1: (Wrong side) Knit
Row 2:K2, Sl 1, K1, PSSO, K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. (24sts)

Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: as Row 2.

Row 5: P2, K to last 2 sts, P2.
Repeat Rows 2 to 5 twice more (14sts).
Row 14: as Row 2 (12 sts)

Row 15: Purl
K 3 more rows.
Row 19: K5, cast off 2 sts, K to the end.
Row 20: K5, cast on 2 sts, K to the end.
K 2 more rows. Cast off. Fold in half at fold line and sew up sides. Place a button and attach to purse.

I-Cord
1. Using the 2 double pointed needles and a single strand of yarn, cast on 5 sts. Knit 1 row. DO NOT TURN.
2. *Slide these 5 sts to the other end of the needle and knit them again, gently pulling down on the cord and tugging yarn at the beginning of each row.
3. Repeat from * until cord is desired length or yarn is almost all gone. Beginning at the fold line of bag, sew each end of the cord to the side seams of bag.

GLORIOUS MITTENS

2008-03-30T10:36:00.000-07:00

So, I'm not wanting to proclaim that this is the best mitten pattern in the world, because it isn't. But it is one of the nicest pairs of mittens that I've ever made and worn because of the yarn that is used: MANOS del URUGUAY, SILK BLEND DK.

To cater to the beauty and wonderful texture of this yarn, I knew that I wouldn't be wearing them to shovel snow or make snowballs; these were going to be "dressy" mittens. For this reason they are made quite small, to fit a lady's hand. Feel free to increase the needle size to 4mm if you wish to accomodate a man's size but I liked the firm texture and look that the 3.5mm gave me.

Needless to say, you can use any good quality Double Knitting weight yarn, but a good blend of pure wool and any other glorious fiber will make these mittens live up to their name: GLORIOUS MITTENS.

Level of Difficulty: This is a very easy pattern, designed as a first mitten pattern for all knitters. For this reason, the right and left mittens are identical. For those who like a more specific fit to cater to the physiological discrepancies between the left and right hand, see Note at the end of the pattern.

SIZE: To fit an average lady's hand.

MATERIALS: -2 x 50g skeins of MANOS del URUGUAY SILK BLEND DK (150m/50g)

3.5mm needles-

TENSION: 26sts = 4” in St st on 3.5mm needles.

DIRECTIONS:

Cuff: Cast on 46 sts.

Row 1 *K2, P2. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. K2.

Row 2: *P2, K2. Repeat from * to last 2 stts. P2.

Repeat these 2 rows until the cuff measures at least 2 1/2". (You will have enough yarn with 300m to make the cuffs long enough to turn back: 6-7")

Beginning with a K row, work 3 rows in stocking stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row)

Next row: P22, Increase in next stitch, P to end of row. (47 sts)

Thumb gussett:

Row 1: K22. Place a marker on the needle. Inc in next stitch. K1. Inc in next stitch. Place a 2nd marker on needle. K22. (49sts)

Row 2 and all wrong side rows: Purl, slipping markers in place.

Row 3 (increase row): K to first marker. Inc 1 st in stitch after the marker. K to the last st before the 2nd marker and inc in this st. K to the end of the row.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until there are 9 sts between the markers. (53 sts)

Next row: Purl.

Next row: Knit.

Next row: Purl.

Next row: Repeat increase row (Row 3, above). (55 sts)

Repeat these last 4 rows until there are 19 sts between the markers. (63 sts)

Next row: (thumb opening) P23 sts, removing the 2nd marker as you pass it. Slip the next 17 sts onto a stitch holder. Inc 1 st in the next st and purl across the rest of the row. (47 sts)

Continue in St St until mitt measures approximately 6 1/2" from the top of the ribbing. (Try it on. Decreases usually begin at the top of the little finger.)

Top decreases:

1st dec. row: K2, *K2tog, K9. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K3. (43 sts)

Next and all wrong side rows: Purl.

Next dec. row: K2, *K2tog, K8. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K3. (39 sts)

Next dec. row: K2, *K2tog, K7. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K3 (35 sts)

Continue decreasing in this manner on every right side row, having 1 less stitch between K2tog until there are 11 sts left on the needle. Cut yarn at about 18". Leave the remaining 11 sts on a stitch holder.

Thumb:

Put the 17 thumb sts from the stitch holder onto a needle and attach the yarn to the first stitch on the right side. Beginning with right side facing, work in stocking st. for approximately 16 rows (Your last row will be a purl row).

1st dec row: K1, *K2tog, K2. Repeat from * to end. (13 sts)

Next and all wrong side rows: Purl.

Next dec. row: K1, *K2tog, K1. Repeat from * to end. (9 sts)

Next dec. row: K1, *K2tog. Repeat from * to end. (5 sts)

Cut yarn leaving a 10" tail and thread it onto a tapestry/sewing needle. Slide the 5 remaining stitches onto the needle and draw up tightly. Sew thumb seam attaching securely at base of thumb to the 1 cast on stitch.

Finishing: Thread the tail from the top of the mitten through a tapestry/sewing needle and slide through all the stitches on the stitch holder drawing them up tightly. Continue to sew the side seam of the mitten.

Make a 2nd mitten to match the first.

NOTE : Because the thumb is not exactly midway across the hand, you may wish to make a slight alteration in the pattern by knitting across 24 sts at the beginning of the right mitten before placing the marker for the thumb gusset. This will leave you with 20 sts after the 2nd marker.

For the left mitten, you will knit 20 sts before placing the marker at the thumb gusset, leaving you with 24 sts after the 2nd marker.

2008-02-01T00:28:00.000-08:00

FASHION SCARVES FOR THE COMPLETELY

UN-CRAFTY

I was recently given the challenge of finding a pattern for something stylish to bring to a group of 10 professional women with an extreme discrepancy in their crafting abilities. Furthermore, the project needed to be a pattern that would appeal to everyone's sense of beauty, and it must be achievable in less than an hour with a glass of wine at the crafter's elbow while chatting with those around them. Some were accomplished knitters and crocheters while others had never touched a ball of yarn in their lives. This pattern fit the bill perfectly. It is guaranteed to be achievable by anyone who can tie a knot and has passed the scissors unit in Kindergarten. Try it at a little girls birthday party!

The results were so beautiful that many of the women were wearing their stunning scarves at breakfast the next morning.

Size: Directions are given for a small "scarf" that goes around the neck once and ties mid chest with tails hanging down (shown above at left). In brackets are quantities required to make the "double scarf" version which is worn doubled around itself with the knot hidden in the back of the neck.

Materials: This is the perfect stash busting project...

3-5m each of at least 5 different fashion yarns. Or as many as you want.

(6-10m each for the "double scarf")

- a very large crochet hook. (optional)

Directions: For those of you who understand crafty terms:

-Cut the lengths of yarn to make the desired size of scarf.

-Hold the ends firmly together and make a slip knot about 6" from one end.

-Using fingers or a large crochet hook, work a series of chain stitches making sure to catch each of the strands on each stitch. Assure a similar tension for each of the stitches.

-Continue until there is about 10" of strands left. Pull all strands through and pull to secure.

-Holding both sets of fringes together, tie them into a secure overhand knot and let them hang down for the simple "scarf" version; or trim close to the knot for the "double scarf" shown on right above. Alternately, make a reef knot (right over left and under; left over right and under) about 6"along the chain and let ends and fringe hang.

Directions: For the un-crafty.

-Cut lengths of yarn as specified under materials for the scarf you wish to make.

-Holding the ends firmly together, fold the group of strands over at about 12 inches from one end and tie a secure loop that is just big enough for your thumb and first 2 fingers to squeeze through.

-Holding the short tail of your scarf in your left hand, gently slip the thumb and first 2 fingers of the right hand through the loop and grasp the long tail of the yarns between them and pull ALL strands through the loop until you have created another loop about the same size as the first one. (This is called making a chain, and not to scare un-crafty among you...you are crocheting.)

-Repeat this action of squeezing your fingers through the last loop and grasping the yarns, pulling them through and creating another loop the same size as the previous one until there is about 10" of strands left.

-On the last pull-through, do not create a loop but keep pulling all of the strands through to their ends and pull tightly.

-Hold the fringe from both ends of the scarf and loop around to tie into a firm single knot and trim ends to 6" for the shorter version as shown on left above, or trim the fringe close to the knot for the "double scarf" version. You could also use a reef knot (right over left and under; left over right and under) about 6 inches along the "chain", above the fringes to create another nice effect.

2007-11-19T16:14:00.000-08:00

KNITTED GINGERBREAD MAN

The picture of this little fellow looks like he was left in the oven a bit too long, but he showed up better in a scan than with my not-so-high-tech camera.

I knitted him many years ago (at least 20) based on a pattern for little people dolls that was probably published in Canadian Living as that was where I got most of my cute patterns in those days, and he's been on our tree every year since then.

What I love about this pattern is that you can make it with any yarn -- to increase or decrease the size. And of course if you make him in white, he becomes a snowman.

MATERIALS: About 25 g of any yarn the colour of a gingerbread boy. (Worsted weight will give you about a 6" doll).

1 pair of needles that are at least 4 or 5 sizes smaller than recommended on the ball band of the yarn that you're using. (For worsted weight, I would use a 3mm needle.)

Small amounts of white, red and black yarn to decorate.

Polyester fibrefill.

DIRECTIONS:

Cast on 32 sts.

Working in stocking stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row) work 4 rows and tie a piece of yarn at the end of that row to mark the feet.

Work 26 rows and tie a piece of yarn at the end of that row to mark the neck.

Work 12 rows.

Next row: Decrease 5 stitches evenly across row. (27 sts)

Next row: purl.

Repeat these last 2 rows twice more. (17 sts)

Last row: K1 (K1, K2tog) 5 times. K1. (12 sts)

Cut yarn leaving about 18" tail. Draw tail through remaining stitches (I thread the tail through a second time just to be sure) and secure but don't cut.

Using the same tail, sew back seam to neck marker. Stuff head until firm but not hard.

Using another piece of yarn in the main colour on a tapestry needle, weave through the stitches of the marked row for the neck and secure.

Continue sewing up the back to the cast on row. Stuff body until firm but not hard. Draw the yarn through the cast on row and draw up. Secure well and leave a good long tail inside the body.

With matching yarn, define arm by doing a series of back stitches that go from the front of the body straight through to the back, beginning 2 rows below neck and 3 stitches from side (arm will therefore be 6 stitches wide). Continue defining arm for 10 rows.

Define legs in the same manner, from the bottom, following up the centre for 14 rows.

Embroider a row of white "icing" chain stitches along the arm crevices and across the row marked for the feet.

Embroider a red mouth and some black "raisin" eyes and buttons.

Suri Prism Alpaca Scarf

2007-09-26T16:02:00.001-07:00

MATERIALS: 1 (2) skein(s) SURI PRISM 96% brushed alpaca.

10mm needles.

SIZE: The scarf is about 6"-8" wide. 1 skein makes a scarf that is approx. 48" long. 2 skeins makes a great statement of a scarf that will wrap you several times in a cloud of colour and softness.

DIRECTIONS:

Loosely cast on 18 sts.

Row 1 and all odd numbered rows: K1, K 2 tog. Knit to the last 2 sts. Increase one stitch in the second last stitch of the row. K1.

Rows 2 & 4: Knit.

Rows 6,8,10: Purl.

Repeat these 10 rows until the yarn is nearly all gone, ending with Row 4 or 5 if possible.

Cast off loosely.

Baby Washcloth and Dribble Cloth of Organic Cotton.

2007-08-20T13:14:00.000-07:00

A new mom was in to the store a few weeks ago to get some cotton to knit facecloths for her baby. She had used her mother's cotton dishcloths to wipe the little one's face while she was visiting and found them to be wonderful at gently cleaning away all sorts of leftovers from baby's face.
By making these cloths of organic cotton, you get the glorious softness of this earth friendly material and the reassurance that baby is also having the benefit of a completely chemical free fibre as all of the colours are natural and undyed. These are quick, easy and luxurious little gifts that any mom would be pleased to receive.

Materials: 2 skeins of Fiddlesticks ECOKNIT DK organic cotton. ( 3 skeins would make 3 washcloths and a dribble cloth).
5mm needles.

WASHCLOTH:
Cast on 43 sts. Knit 3 rows.
Eyelet row: K3, *Yfwd, K2tog, K2. Repeat from * to last end.

Pattern rows: K 3 rows.
4th row: K3, Yfwd, K2tog, K to last 4 sts. Yfwd, K2tog, K2.
Repeat these 4 pattern rows 12 more times.
K3 rows.
Repeat Eyelet row.
K 3 rows. Cast off loosely.

DRIBBLE CLOTH:
Cast on 31 sts. (39 for a wider cloth)
K3 rows.
Work eyelet row from Washcloth pattern.
Work the 4 pattern rows and repeat them 24 times or until desired length.
K 3 rows.
Repeat Eyelet row.
K 3 rows. Cast off loosely.

Baby's Beanie

2007-07-29T05:56:00.000-07:00

Baby’s Beanie
NOTE ON THE YARN: The beanie in the photo was done with white wool that was hand painted with Kool-Aid in 4 colours. (Link here to see the yarn dyeing in progress.) http://wooltymekingston.blogspot.com/2007/07/i-got-brave-yesterday.html
Mission Falls 1824 Wool will soon be available in a new Tri Color combo that would be wonderful. Their solid colours are exquisite too. All Mission Falls yarns are machine washable on gentle cycle.

SIZE: 0-3mos (3-6mos, 6-12mos)

MATERIALS: -50g (100g, 100g) Mission Falls 1824 Wool or Cotton.
-3.75mm needles
- 4.5mm needles

TENSION: 20sts = 4” in St st on 4mm needles.

DIRECTIONS:
Using 3.75 mm needles, cast on 71 (81, 91) sts loosely. Work 6 rows in St st (Knit 1 row, Purl 1 row).
Change to 4mm needles and work in St st, until hat measures 4 1/2" (5", 5 1/2").
Hat’s top shaping:
1st row: *K5, (6,7) K2tog. Repeat from * to last st, K1. 61 (71, 81) sts.
2nd and all even numbered rows: purl
3rd row: *K4 (5,6) K2tog, Repeat from * to last st, K1. 51 (61, 71) sts.
5th row: *K3, (4,5) K2tog, Repeat from * to last st, K1. 41 (51,61) sts.
Continue decreasing in this manner, having 1 less stitch between the decreases on every 2nd row until 20 stitches remain.
Next row: K2tog 10 times, K1. Purl 1 row.
Next row: K2tog 5 times, K1. 5 sts remain.
Work 6 rows in St st. Break yarn and thread through the remaining sts, draw up tightly and sew seam, reversing the “right” side of work for the last inch to show purl side of bottom rolled brim.

To avoid a seam, this pattern can also be worked in the round using 16" circular needles and changing to double pointed needles as required. All Purl rows would be done in the knit stitch if doing the hat in the round.

Copyright 2007 Anne Woodall, WOOL-TYME Kingston.

JJ Premium Mohair Shawl

2007-06-20T11:10:00.000-07:00

JJ Premium Mohair Shawl

MATERIALS: 1 skein JJ Mohair or Mohair Boucle. (2 skeins if fringe is required.)
10mm circular knitting needle 80cm.
DIRECTIONS:
1. Cast on 6 stitches loosely. Knit 1 row.
2. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd, knit to the end. Repeat this row 13 times more (20sts)
3. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd, knit to the last 3 sts, inc. n the next stitch, K2. Repeat this row until there are 60 sts on the needle.
4. Next row: Cast on 4 sts. Turn work. Sl 1, (yfwd, K2tog) twice. Knit to the end. Repeat this row until you have 120 sts on the needle.
5. Next row: Sl 1, yfwd. Knit to the end. Continue until there are about 135 sts. Cast off LOOSELY.
You can use the yfwd eyelets for placing a fringe.
Or crochet a border: At the end of the cast off, do not cut yarn. *Ch5, sc into the 2nd yfwd space. Repeat from * along the outer edges.

The "Any Yarn" Shrug

2007-06-05T16:27:00.000-07:00

SIZE: Small- to fit 32”-34”chest, Med.- to fit 36”-40” chest, Large- to fit 44”-46”chest. Note: To change the shrug size, use a larger needle after the cuff. Small size use 7mm, Med. Size use 8 or 9mm, large size use 10mm.
MATERIALS: 450m (600m, 750m) of any smooth or textured yarn, light chunky weight.
One pair 4.5mm needles for the cuffs and size required for the shawl size that you wish to make. (see note above - this is a loosely knit garment).

DIRECTIONS:
1. With 4.5mm needles, cast on 30sts.
2. 1st row: *K2, P2. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. K2
3. 2nd row: *P2, K2. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. P2
4. Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more (12 rows all together)
5. Inc Row: Change to larger needles and knit, increasing 15 sts evenly. (45 sts)
6. 1st &3rd ptrn row: Purl
7. 2nd row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat to last 2 sts, P2.
8. 4th row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
9. Repeat these four rows, including the increased stitches into the pattern until there are a total of 65 sts (or whatever width you desire) ending with a Purl row.
10. Next row: Place a marker at the beginning of the row. Continue without shaping until the piece measures 30”(or length desired). Place a second marker along the same edge as the first. Measure the distance between the 1st and second markers and work the same distance without shaping until the length from the 2nd marker is the same as the first measurement, ending with a purl row. Place a 3rd marker.
11. 1st ptrn row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 4 sts. K2tog, P2.
12. 2nd and 4th row: Purl.
13. 3rd ptn row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. P2
14. Repeat these 4 rows until there are 45 sts.
15. Dec row: P1, P2tog. Repeat across. (30 sts)
16. Repeat the cuff ribbing as described in #1-4. Cast off loosely.
17. Sew cuff and edges together from cast on edge to 1st marker.**
18. Sew cuff and edges together from cast off edge to 3rd marker. **
**Note: If you want a more fitted look, continue sewing the seam to the desired length.

THE RIBBON YARN TANK

2007-06-03T12:52:00.000-07:00

THE RIBBON YARN TANK

SIZE: Finished chest: 32” (34”, 36”, 38”)
MATERIALS: 5( 5,6,6) balls of aran weight yarn (100m ea)
5mm & 5.5mm needles or size required to achieve the tension.

GAUGE: 18 sts and 24 rows = 4” in st st on 5.5mm needles.

DIRECTIONS:
FRONT:
*With smaller needles, cast on 70 (74-78-82) sts.
Knit 5 rows, inc 4 (4-6-6) sts evenly across last row. 74 (78-84-88) sts.
Change to larger needles and beginning with a knit row, work in socking st (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 11 ½” from the cast on edge, ending with the right side facing for the next row.

Armhole shaping: Cast off 5 sts at the beg of next 2 rows. 64 (68- 74- 78) sts.
Next row: K2, K1, Sl 1, PSSO, Knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Next row: P2, P2tog, Purl to last 4 sts, P2tog through the back loops, P2.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more. 56 (60-66-70) sts.

Next row: K2 K1, Sl 1, PSSO, knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Next row: Purl.
Repeat these last 2 rows 1 (2-3-3) times more. 52 (54-58-62) sts.*

Continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 3 ½ (3 ¾- 4- 4 ¼) ins. ending with right side facing for next row.

Neck Shaping:
Next row: K17 (18-19-20). TURN. Leave remaining sts on a st holder.
Next row: P2, P2tog, Purl to end of row.
Next row: K to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Rep last 2 rows once more. 13 (14-15-16) sts.

Next row: (WS) Purl
Next row: Knit to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2.
Repeat last 2 rows 3 times more. 9 (10-11-12) sts.

Beginning with a purl row, continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 7 (7 ¼ -7 ½- 7 ¾) ins. ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip next 18 (18-20-22) sts onto a st holder. Join yarn to remaining sts and knit to the end of the row.
Next row: Purl to last 4 sts, P2tog through the back loops, P2.
Next row: K2, K1, Sl1, PSSO, Knit to the end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows once more. 13 (14-15-16) sts.

Next row: Purl
Next row: K2, K1, Sl1, PSSO, Knit to the end of the row.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. 9 (10-11-12) sts.
Beginning with a purl row, continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 7 (7 ¼ -7 ½-
7 ¾ ) ins. Ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.

BACK:
Work from * to * as for Front.
Continue even in Stocking st until armhole measures 4 rows less than the front (to shoulders.)

Shoulder and back neck shaping:
Next row: K10 (11-12-13) K2tog. Leave remaining sts on a st holder.
Next row: P2tog, Purl to end of row.
Next row: Knit to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: Purl.
Cast off remaining 9 (10-11-12) sts.

With right side of work facing, slip the next 28 (28-30-32) sts onto a st holder. Join yarn to remaing sts and proceed: K1, Sl1, PSSO, knit to the end of the row.
Next row: Purl to the last 2 sts. P2tog through the back loops.
Next row: K1, Sl 1, PSSO, knit to the end of row.
Next row: Purl. Cast off remaining 9 (10-11-12) sts.

FINISHING:
Neck: Sew right shoulder seam. With right side of work facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 22 sts down the left front neck edge. K18 (18-20-22) sts from front st holder. Pick up and knit 22 sts up right front neck edge and 3 sts down right back neck edge. K28 (28-30-32) sts from back st holder. Pick up and knit 3 sts up left beck neck edge. 96 (96-100-104 sts) knit 2 rows. Cast off in knit using a 5.5mm needle in your right hand.

Armbands: Sew left should and neckband seam. With right side of work facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 64 (66-68-70) sts around armhole edge. Knit 2 rows. Cast off in knit. Sew side and armband seams.

SIDEWAYS SOCKS ADAPTATION

2007-06-03T12:49:00.000-07:00

SIDEWAYS SOCKS ADAPTATION
NOTE: This is not a sock pattern. These directions are meant to be used with your favourite sock pattern in order to change the leg part so that it is knit sideways, in garter stitch on 2 needles. The advantages are for those who prefer 2 needle knitting as almost half of the sock is completed before you need to return to the 4 needle method, and for those who are concerned about their socks slouching: the sideways garter stitch is very firm and stays up on its own while providing lots of stretch so as not to bind at the leg.

MATERIALS:-This takes a little more yarn than an average pair of socks but 100g should do at least to a man’s medium size.
-The size of needles that you need is determined by the pattern that you usually use. You can put stoppers (or an elastic) on the ends of 2 of your double pointed needles or use a regular pair of needles the same size as the double points that you will be using for the foot of the sock.

SIZE: Directions are given for a 6” leg in 4ply fingering yarn with changes for sport and Worsted weight given in brackets. For a longer leg, cast on more stitches. You will see that it is easy to adapt these directions to suit any sock pattern based on the number of stitches that you would normally require for the leg of the sock.
DIRECTIONS FOR LEG:
Leaving a tail of approx 24”, cast on 48 (42, 36) sts. (IF YOU WISH, use a piece of waste yarn and a provisional cast on.)
Note that row 1 is the wrong side of work.
Knit every row for twice the number of rows as the number of stitches that will be required for the foot of the sock. Example: 120 rows for 60 st pattern. (104 rows for a 52 st pattern; 88 rows for a 44 st pattern).
Place a marker the beginning of the row that marks each ¼ of the rows: Example: at rows 30, 60 & 90. (at rows 26, 54, & 80; at rows 22, 44 & 66) Do not cast off.
With right sides together, join the cast on edge to the stitches on the needle into a tube in one of the following ways:
-Using the long cast-on tail, pick up and knit 48 (42, 36) sts along the cast-on edge and join by grafting with a Kitchener stitch, or with the 3 needle cast off method. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Alternately, cast off the stitches from the needle leaving the last stitch on a stitch holder (DO NOT CUT YARN) and sew the cast-on and cast-off edges together. Turn the leg right side out.
PICKING UP THE FOOT:
**Using a double pointed needle, and beginning at the joined row, pick up and knit 1 stitch between each ridge along the side of the tube to the marker. 15 (13, 11) sts. Repeat from ** twice more using a different needle for each section.
Using a 4th double pointed needle, pick up and knit 15 (13, 11) stitches to the joined row then knit across the first needle of picked up stitches. You will now have 15, 15, 30 (13, 13, 26; 11, 11, 22) sts on your 3 needles and are ready to continue working the heel flap according to your own pattern for socks.

RIBBON YARN NECKLACE

2007-06-03T12:47:00.000-07:00

RIBBON YARN NECKLACE

MATERIALS: - 1 ball fashion Ribbon type yarn: (Opulence, Capri, Eros, Dazzle)
- 5.5mm double pointed needles
- 3 large beads

DIRECTIONS:
To make I-cord:
I-cord is simply a 2 needle version of the corking that children do with a spool and nails. Here’s how its done.

Using 2 double pointed needles, cast on 5 stitches.
Row 1: Knit. Slide stitches to the other end of the needle. DO NOT TURN.
Row 2: Drawing the yarn from the last stitch of the previous row across the back of the work, knit the 5 stitches. Gently tug the cast on tail to bring the first and last stitches side by side. Slide stitches to the other end of the needle. DO NOT TURN.
Repeat Row 2 until the strand measures 5’ for a doubled strand necklace (if using thicker ribbon such as Opulence, or Dazzle) or 7’ for triple strands (when using lighter ribbon such as Eros).

Finishing: Fold strand in 2 or 3 sections according to the length that you knit. Slide the 3 beads onto the folded strands. To create the Loop end, using sewing thread sew strands together to create a loop that will fit snuggly over the first bead. At the opposite end tie a very secure overhand knot using all the strands. Secure with sewing thread if desired. Slide the first bead up against this knot and arrange the other beads opposite each other at the collar bone or wherever you like. Slip loop over the first bead to attach.

FAVOURITE "BLOSSOM/WHISPER" SCARF.

2007-06-03T12:41:00.000-07:00

BLOSSOM/WHISPER SCARF.

MATERIALS: 2- 50g balls of Noro’s BLOSSOM yarn.
1- 50g ball Estelle WHISPER
One pair of size 8mm knitting needles.

DIRECTIONS: NOTE: Throughout the scarf, the 2 yarns are worked together for rows 1 to 4 and BLOSSOM is used alone for rows 5-10.
1. Cast on 22 stitches loosely.
2. 1st row and all odd numbered rows: K1. Increase in the next st by knitting into the front and then into the back of the stitch. Knit to the last 3 sts. K2tog. K1.
3. 2nd and 4th rows: Knit.
4. 6th, 8th and 10th rows: Purl.

Copyright 2005 WOOL-TYME Kingston, Anne Cormier Woodall

FELTED TEA COZY

2007-06-03T12:30:00.000-07:00

FULLED/FELTED TEA COZY

MATERIALS: 2-100g balls of Lopi Wool for a fuzzy tea cozy or 2-100g of Classic Wool held together for a less furry finish.
9mm circular needle (80cm long)
1 spare straight needle (large, but exact size is not important)

DIRECTIONS:
Using 1 strand of Lopi or 2 strands of Classic Wool, cast on 90 sts. Knit 5 rows back and forth, without joining. (Garter Stitch)
First circle Row: Make sure that the knitting is not twisted around the needle, and join in a circle, placing a marker at the first stitch of the round. Knit every row (this will now look like stocking st) until the 2 balls have been almost all used, ending at the marker.

Finishing row: Knit the next 45 stitches onto the spare straight needle. Turn the cozy so that the purl side is facing out and the end of the straight needle is pointing to the right. Slide the circular needle so that its working point is at the 46th stitch and hold the 2 needles parallel in your left hand.
Using the free end of the circular needle, work a 3-needle cast off as follows:
Step 1: *Insert the free end of the circular needle through the first stitch on each of the needles in your left hand. Knit these 2 stitches together.*
Repeat from * to *. (2 sts now on right end of circ needle).
Step 2: Cast off the first of these 2 sts by lifting it over the second, making sure not to lose any of the stitches from the left hand needles.
Repeat these 2 steps casting off a stitch after each new K2tog until 1 st remains on right hand needle.
Break the yarn and pull through the last st. Work in all ends.
For a rounded shape at the corners of your tea cozy, working on the inside of the piece, fold the cozy so that the line that would be the side lies along the cast off edge. Sew through both layers to form a triangle 3 inches from the top corner. Repeat this on the other side.
Turn right side out.

Fulling instructions:
Place the cozy in a zippered pillow case and put it in the washing machine on a hot wash/ cold rinse setting, using a small amount of dish detergent. (You may wish to add a few towels to give more agitation and speed up the felting process) Repeat this process for as many cycles as are necessary to achieve the desired size. (usually 2 or 3 cycles are required). When the cozy is the right size, pat it into the desired shape and let air dry. Do not put it in the dryer.

MOHAIR EYELET SHAWL/SCARF

2007-06-03T12:22:00.000-07:00

MOHAIR LUX EYELET SCARF/SHAWL

Note: Directions are given for scarf with changes for shawl written in parentheses.

MATERIALS: - 1 (2) 50g balls of Mohair LUX (180,/198yds ea)
9 mm needles.

SIZE: Approx. 8” (20”) wide and 43” (40) long without fringe.

DIRECTIONS: Cast on 26 (60) sts
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, +K2tog, yarn over needle+. repeat from + to + to last st. K1
Row 3: Knit
Repeat these 3 rows until scarf measures approx 43” (40”) ending with row 2. Cast off knitwise.
Add fringes of 8-12” long strands if desired.

JANE'S KNITTED CATNIP MOUSE.

2007-06-03T12:03:00.000-07:00

JANE’S KNITTED CATNIP MOUSE
Copyright 2007 Jane Ramsay.

A fun little something for your best feline friend. I like to use a solid 100% wool because the cats love that little bit of lanolin scent in the wool (as well as the wool itself). Also, when using pure wool, the mice will felt nicely with use. I use organic catnip from a good quality pet food store. (In Kingston: URBAN PAWS.) Jane

Size: approx 3 inches
Materials: about 50g of 100% wool in worsted weight, firmly spun, (such as Topsy Farm’s or Briggs & Little). Small amount of unspun sheep’s fleece.
Organic catnip.
Needles: 3.25 mm needles. needles

DIRECTIONS:
Beginning at the tail end of the mouse, cast on 3 sts, leaving a yarn tail about 12” long.
Row 1: purl Row 2: K1, Inc loosely in each stitch to the end. 7 sts.
Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 33 sts on the needle.
Next row: Purl. Next row: Knit. Next row: Purl.

1st Dec. row: K1, SSK, K to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 31sts.
Next and every alternate row: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 19 sts on the needle.

Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K5, Slip 2 sts, K1, Pass the 2 slipped stitches over the K stitch, (this will now be known as P2SSO) K5, K2tog, K1. 15sts.
Next and every alternate row: Purl
Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K3, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K3, K2tog, K1. 11 sts.

Next Dec. row: K1, SSK, K1, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K1, K2tog, K1. 7sts.

Next Dec. row: K2, Slip 2sts, K1, P2SSO, K2. 5sts.

Last Dec row: K1, Slip 2 sts, K1, P2SSO, K1. 3sts.
Next Row: P3tog. Cut the tail at about 24” and pull through the last stitch.
Use this long piece to sew the mouse from nose to tail, stuffing with catnip and sheep’s fleece in layers as you go. When fully stitched, double up the longest piece of sewing yarn by pulling part way through the tail end of the mouse, making 4 strands. Braid these strands to make the tail. Add whiskers with embroidery thread.

LACY SHRUG OF BAMBOO

2007-06-03T06:02:00.000-07:00

LACY SHRUG IN BAMBOO

SIZE: This shrug fits almost anyone. If you want it longer down your back cast on 51 sts and continue increasing to 68 sts. If you want longer sleeves, work the straight part along the back for extra repeats of the 4 row pattern. Sew the sleeves to the ½ way between your shoulder and armpit for a nice drape in the back and to have it stay on your shoulders.
MATERIALS: 4 50g balls of Sirdar JUST BAMBOO ribbon.
One pair 8mm needles. This is a very loosely knit garment

DIRECTIONS:
1. Cast on 45 sts.
2. Purl 1 row.
3. Solid cuff row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to the last 2 sts. P2.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Next row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
6. Inc.Pattern Rows: Rows 1 and 3: Purl.
7. 2nd pattern row (right side): P5, K 2, *yfwd, K2tog, K1 Repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
8. 4th pattern row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. Increase 1 in next st, P2.
9. Repeat these four rows, including the increased stitches into the pattern until there are a total of 60 sts (or whatever width you desire) ending with an increase.
10. Next row: Place a marker at the beginning of the row. Continue without increasing on the 4th row for 44 rows (or length desired). Place a second marker along the same edge as the first.
11. Dec. Pattern Rows: Rows 1 and 3: Purl.
12. 2nd pattern row: P5, K 2, *yfwd, K2tog, K1 Repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
13. 4th pattern row: P5, *K2, P1. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K2tog, P2.
14. Repeat these 4 rows until there are 45 sts ending with 4th pattern row. Purl 1 row.
15. Repeat the solid cuff row from the beginning of the pattern .
16. Cast off loosely on the next row.
17. Sew arms along the first 7 repeats of the pattern (count the yfwd eyelets to guide you) or whatever length suits your fit and look.
18. In case you’re not sure, the garter stitch edge (P5) usually looks better around the neck and the shaped edge goes along the bottom but it’s whatever suits best.
**Note: If you want a more fitted look, continue sewing the underarm seam to the desired length.